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Thread: V9 Homebrew wiring problem?
  

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  1. #1 V9 Homebrew wiring problem? 
    grumman is offline Member
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    Ok, I've done about 10 V9s (and 1 V10), and I have used the .2mm enammeled copper wire for the G,H,I,B and F connections (I'm not a noob). I have had 3 machines back almost straight away with no picture (black screen), no eject and a clicking noise for a few secs from the laser assembley. All machines were tested and working after the mods were fitted, and I'm not talking about the occasional black screen on reset. On each machine, re wiring the 5 (GHIFB) connections and rerouting the wires seems to fix the problem. It may be a routing issue on my part, and I am also going back to using Kynar for all connections. Has anyone else had any problems?? Maybe I'm at fault, but I'd like to know.

  2. #2  
    Emanuel's Avatar
    Emanuel is offline Member
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    I also use enamelled copper wire (I think it's 0.3mm) for points B, F,G,H,I. I have used this setup on V3 and V4 consoles and now also on V9's. I always clean the wires ends and put solder all around the ends before fitting. I always solder the wires to the IC pins and not to vias. I had problems a long time ago because soldering to vias doesn't always give best results due to possible cold joints.

    ROUTING: I solder the wires to the PS1(?) processor on top of the board. I then lay the wires on top of the IC, every wire at 1-2 mm distance from each other and stick them with some good adhesive tape. I don't use plastic because there is no place between the IC and the protective metal case. Then I bring the wires together and link them with adhesive tape. I use the shortest path towards the chip, but I don't put stress on the wires.

    Be careful with the enamelled copper wires because they can be easily exposed at the ends and they may short-circuit.

  3. #3 Smile Clicking noises from laser assembly not good! 
    bunghoolio is offline Member
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    Hi there fellow modder. I have blown up more v9 's than you have modded! But at the same time I have MASTERED the v9 install. RCE and Lacyg and all ICE TEAM make it possible...THNX again!!!
    @ least 50+ units under my belt Lotsa friends BIG Christmas rush!!!
    If your soldering is up 2 speed, then it might be an idea to ground the sx & the flip flop 1st, then wire them 2getha then rst, then Z, then A, then S, then Bios wires, Then W, Then Gnd 50mzh resin.Then 5v, Then I,H,G,F,B...
    You don't have 2 take my advice but like I said....I have destroyed more machines than you have modded.... AND I WILL DESTROY MORE PS2's in FUTURE!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAH
    Last edited by bunghoolio; 12-29-2003 at 11:06 AM.

  4. #4  
    Chipdealer Guest
    LOL.. i think the V9 machine is verry tempremental

    Might be a good idea on all of them to wire the fan to +5v to increase the speed. I personally think V9 units suffer from overheating specific components just my opinion

  5. #5  
    Marshall Guest
    using mxl2 chip and have same faults (blank screen/no sound) on ver 9's any ideas also have ver 10, diagram required

  6. #6  
    grumman is offline Member
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    All the ones I have had back have been cured (so far) by using Kynar wire and not copper enamelled wire for the GHIBF connections.. In other words Kynar used in total for the installation.! I like to think I can solder (I'm an electronics engineer by trade), and have been on the PSX scene since Scott ryder days, so I've made my share of mistakes and recoveries, but on all these consoles:-
    1. They were all tested after I had modded them.
    2. If its my soldering, I must be making the same mistake repeateadly, presumabley the same point(s).!!

    I'm just going to stick with kynar for now and see if any of them fail.
    Last edited by grumman; 12-30-2003 at 07:01 AM.

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