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need hex ice v14 v15 –
that code is not public try octapus.net thin thay have the hex on the sight
The octapus3D hex is the exact same as the old file posted here (and removed), "h2o-orange-F.hex". Is that what the octapus chip is using? If so... how are they getting the 100% boot rate, crans? That file sucks with the H2O... Maybe there's a hardware change?
EDIT: FALSE about the 3.3V on Octapus - see below
The only change is that it uses 3.3V for the 74HC73 supply. That's what I use too ever since a few years ago and I didn't have major problems with ICE codes. The use of 74HC73 with 5V is problematic, because the A point is on 3.3V logic and can't properly drive the Schmitt Trigger 5V-input of the 74HC73 and can cause occasional impulse misses.
Last edited by Emanuel; 02-22-2006 at 03:36 PM.
Ahhh, big thanks emanuel! Perhaps I can revive my H2Os for V14 now!
From what you're saying, I just have to cut all the 5V traces to the 74HC73 chip and reconnect them instead to a 3.3 volt supply. I leave the SX28 at 5V though, right?
But... since the 3.3 volt supply in the PS2 isn't on during standby, does this cause a problem since the SX28 is on the entire time? Or will that be OK? If so, I should just use either a couple of diodes or a 1.7v zener (if I can find one) to drop the 5v to 3.3v... right?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to fix this problem.
I don't use any diodes. I link the SX to 5V and the 74HC73 to 3.3V. So does the Octapus chip. And the 5V isn't on during standby, as far as I know.
Sounds great, I'll give it a try today if I can and see how it goes!
What I said about the Octapus having a 3.3V power connection to the 74HC73 is false. I saw an additional connection on the Octapus chip (see attached picture) and I thought it was a 3.3V connection from the BIOS. It is in fact a GND connection.
So what exatcly is making the octapus modchip more stable?