If your TV set has Component inputs (three RCA for video + two RCA for Audio) then you should definitely get a "PS2 Component cable" for it. I use the original "PS3 Component Cable" from Sony for my PS2, but that is probably a lot more expensive than other brands. Either way it should have the usual PS1/PS2/PS3 AV connector at one end and a set of 5 RCA males at the other end.
Originally Posted by AsGSnak
If your TV set has no Component inputs but does have a SCART connector with RGB implemented, then you should definitely get a "PS2 RGB SCART" cable for it. I've used several different ones which have worked fine. Just make sure that the capacity for RGB is clearly stated, so you don't buy another composite SCART kludge, like the one Sony includes with every console in Europe.
That's odd, that it should be that bad, since it is the same interlace mode as used in all normal PAL TV transmissions. But in 'natural' transmissions the natural blending of adjacent pixel colors helps to reduce the visibility of interlace. It always looks much worse when using digitally generated bright text on a dark background, especially when most of the horizontal line parts of the characters have a thickness of only two pixels, as is common for these fonts. That makes it look much worse than it will once you start a game.
Yeah I noticed Full Buffer makes my text words shake, so I can't use it.
Not for all games. NI video modes only work well with NI games, so to speak.
I tried all the PAL resolutions, and Half-Buffer works just fine. PAL NI works fine too (in game) but when I set it, I am not able to see the full screen, both on GMS and after that on FreeMCBoot and ESR. When the game starts, it works fine.
And that is why it looks so bad in GUIs before the game, since they almost never use non-interlaced modes, though you can set up uLE to do so, if you like. That is one of the available options in the uLE Configurator submenu "Screen Settings...", where you can change "Interlace: ON" to "Interlace: OFF".
That will reduce the resolution uLE tries to use to either 224 or 256 scanlines (NTSC vs PAL), so that the entire uLE GUI will be visible even when you use GSM to enforce a non-interlaced video mode.
Good, and remember that the mode stored in slot 00 of GSM gets auto-activated each time you launch it, which can save some time in each session.
So I'll stick to one of those 2. I saved them on the MC so that I don't have to set it every time I boot my PS2.
The 'Fixes' are mostly best left alone, unless we recommend using it for some specific purpose.
The only thing I do in GSM is set the resolution and center the screen. I don't know what the other options do - the right analog stick (DH and DW), the STEP COMBOS or the FIXES.
The 'Step Combos' are just held simultaneously while making joystick steps, to determine the size of the steps. If no extra button is held the steps are always 4 units, but holding L1 reduces that step size to 1 unit, while holding R1 raises the step size to 16. (Holding both is reserved for the combos to toggle the 'Fixes', so don't do that normally.)
Each 'step' is taken simply by briefly tilting a joystick in one of the 4 cardinal directions.
Doing this with the right joystick will alter what size GSM should consider available for use with this TV/monitor in the current video mode, by adjusting the DW and DH values (each is the true size minus one). This size is used in deciding what scale factors to use in optimizing the use of the screen at ingame video mode changes.
For old CRT SDTVs the default DW and DH values are nearly always sufficient for the standard video modes. But for widescreen HDTV LCD sets you can usually improve results by setting DW and DH for full fillout of the available screen. (This normally requires recentering with DX and DY as well.)
CRT == Cathode Ray Tube, meaning that the screen area is just one side of a huge glass tube, or flask if you like, with the cathode ray drivers at the cork end of the flask. It is one of the last widespread remnants of the old electronic tube technology which preceded the transistor technology (with considerable overlap).
I have 2 TVS - an LCD and a very old one, non-flat screen (CRT, I think?-sorry i'm noob at this).
That is the reason why CRT TVs are so bulky and heavy, because it is impossible to make a glass flask with a big screen surface sturdy enough not to break, without also making it bulky and heavy. And it is also why almost no CRT TVs or monitors had a flat screen, since it is very hard to make a stable flask with a perfectly flat 'bottom'. And such a flat bottom also requires special adaption of the circuitry to control the electron beam that 'draws' on the phosphorus layer on the inside of the screen area.
Some modern sets are fully compatible both to PAL and NTSC color modulation, so that they will give full colour in both, even with a composite cable. But the picture quality will still be crap compared to what you get with a Component or RGB cable.
The thing is: my NTSC games work fine on my PAL PS2 when I'm using my LCD (colors are fine, screen centered).
This is of course due to lack of compatibility to NTSC color modulation.
But on my old TV, my NTSC games play black and white
Using PAL60 would change that without changing anything else.
This means that the TV has a problem with the 60Hz vertical sync, so you are not able to use PAL60 either. You'll have to enforce normal PAL, and that will have two negative effects, one mandatory and one conditional. The mandatory drawback is that the screen appearance will be 'flattened', with a black border above and below the used screen part. This is because normal PAL shows 512 scanlines for PS2 games, while NTSC games only use 448 scanlines (256 and 224 respectively for non-interlaced modes).
and there are stripes across the screen moving the whole time, so it's unplayable.
The conditional drawback is that some games use the vertical sync to control other timing in the game, and all such events will then proceed at a speed approximately 17% slower in PAL than in NTSC, and when this timing is used to control speech or music there may also be audible glitches.
It clearly does.
That's why I had to find this GSM. I was just wondering if my LCD supports NTSC?
Sony does not allow the playing of out-of-region games. They even claim that it is illegal to import/export original game discs across the region borders, so they are quite fanatic about it. But we do not customarily obey Sony's ludicrous commandments... :)
And even if it does, I thought that you also needed to have a NTSC PS2 to be able to play those games. It looks like I was wrong. Need your explanation :p
Using modchips or homebrew game loaders completely eliminates the region locking of PS2 games, since that is only implemented in the CDVD mechacon (the controller for the CDVD drive).
But you still have the remnant problems of making those games display right on the TV, which is a problem that varies greatly depending on the TV set you have, as you have noticed. And that is where both GSM and proper cable choice comes into the picture.
I recommend that you get a Component cable to raise picture quality for the HDTV set,
and also that you get an RGB SCART cable for the SDTV set (if it has SCART inputs),
as that too will raise picture quality significantly (though the quality is always limited on a CRT).
Best regards: dlanor