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Please Help! Guessing I blew fuse or power supply...
Please Help! Guessing I blew fuse or power supply... –
Well, I posted in the modchip section yesterday about how I was sure I installed my CC 2.0 perfectly, yet when I hit the reset button, the light went from its red state to its green state, but only for barely a second then it went back to red.
Didn't get any replies on that, but now I know it isn't a modchip problem. I just took out the modchip and all of the wires and the same thing was happening. And the laser or disc spinner doesn't even try to start up either.
I had the EXACT same thing happen just the other day modding a psone! Yet this has never happened before, now twice in as many days to two different consoles!
First of all, what sort of things can cause a fuse or power supply to blow like that 2 times to two consoles in two days?
Too much static on me? I don't know. I do use a grounded iron, and I make sure I ground myself.
Anyhow, my question is (and I do have a multimeter although I don't know how to use it other than to check if connections are good or bad)...How do I know what happened and how do I pinpoint the problem area?
How do I know what fuse has blown, or if the power supply has gone bad?
Thing is, like I said, there is power going to the console as I do get the red light and green light for that second, so it is getting power.
Does this mean that it must be a fuse?
How do I check which one is bad?
Btw, I have a v12 slimline.
static won't cause a fuse to blow. Its either a damaged component which is drawing too much current, or more likely a short on the board. Double, triple check for shorts - its easy to have a solder blob causing a short.
check all the fuses - see my site for a fuse diagram. if you meter has a continiuty setting it should beep when the fuse is good. otherwise put the meter on ohm's setting - a good fuses should read 0 ohms - or very close to that (0.1 ohms
Thanks for that helpful reply.
I'm only now, searching the net, finding out that MANY people have had trouble w/ version 12 ps2's. And that is what I have. Lot's of stories about things going terribly wrong after installing a chip, and in some cases even without a chip.
Now I'm paranoid about using the ps2 even if I do replace the fuse and get the chip working.
Like I said, I blew a fuse (or power supply) on the psone just a day before my ps2 got nailed. And I was proud of the chip install too!
Do you think it is just bad luck? Also, I really did double, triple, and quadruple check all my connections and did all possible tests twice over before I even plugged my ps2 for the first test. Which, btw, went exactly as it was supposed to go.
The green light on my chip flashed green for a sec, and I thought all was good.
What do you guys think of the neofix xiv? Came with my chip. It was after installing the first few wires on that (then doing the pre-test) when I noticed it failed the test and realized something might be wrong.
But I just figured I would remove the neofix, which I did, but maybe it was too late?
My confidence is shaken a bit. However, I do have a v15, brand new, that I can work on. No need to worry about a laser fix. Looks like it should be a slightly easier and safer install.
I might as well go for it!
And thanks kl1k, I checked out your site and it could prove to be very useful.
Hey kl1k, this is wierd. I saw you diagram for v12. For one thing, I have a 032-12, the one on your site is 032-11.
Everything is EXACTTLY the same, except the ps14 fuse that has a 50 on it. What I have there is, apparently, not a fuse. Even though ps14 is written beside it.
Even worse, perhaps, is that what is there is the 3v3 solder point! And I'm sure I'm not supposed to solder to a fuse.
I'm really confused. Where is my ps14 fuse? In fact, I don't see ANY fuses on my entire board with a 50 on it.
Can anybody make sense of this?
the 032-12 and 032-11 should be the same afaik. Can you take a pic of the component? Even if it doesn't have a 50 on it, it could still be a fuse, maybe just another rating with a different value. the value's of the fuses should be written on the board - there will be a ps14 with a part number next to it. (check the text box to the right of the fuse)
This diagram turned out better than my pic (too much flash off the metal, too blurry without flash).
The component in question is partially covered by the 3v3 sign, but you can see where it is pointing to, and you can see the "ps14" written on the board. Also, you can see that it doesn't look anything like that 50 fuse on the diagram.
Btw, this is the diagram to the chip I'm installing for my version, so apparently some versions of v12 are different?
I can barely make out what the component says even with reading glasses, but I am 99% positive that a "202" is written on it. It could be "201" because my removed sawder took off some of that plastic.
This component is just like 100 other ones on the board. Looks like black plastic in the middle with numbers on it, and metal on each side.
The continuity of this component is like .380 (where 1.0 is no connection at all).
However, I have noticed that most other similar components like this are closer to .000.
So I don't know if this is the trouble part (fuse or not). If so, I don't understand how it got damaged unless my diagram is wrong and I shouldn't of soldered there.
But even when I did solder there, I had no problems and did not at all hold excess heat to that component (and its still in place).
ok - thats definatly a fuse (A smd 2A fuse to be precise) A short somewhere would most likely cause this to blow.
Try and replace it with another smd 2A fuse - whatever u do dont replace it with a piece of wire. If you can't get a smd fuse you can get a glass fuse - solder wires on the end of it and insulate it well. then solder the wires over the old fuse. It won't be pretty busy it should work. if it blows again you've got more serious problems. also while the boards open - check all the other fuses.
Glad to hear a more definitive answer. Hmm. Why would my chip want me to solder to a fuse for my 3v3 power?
Is that wrong? There are alternate power solder points, I'm kind of wishing I would of used them instead for this v12.
Although apparently this is the correct way to do it. If it caused problems for everybody then they would have changed the diagram by now.
I know some of the metal was removed off the soldered side of this "fuse" from the desoldering braid. I wonder if I soldered some metal back on if it would increase the connectivity back to normal?
Then I'll have to try what you said. Just when I thought I knew all the fuses and how to replace them, this one pops up. So I don't know exactly how to go about doing what you said.
I guess I can remove it and have a look at it and go from there. I'm hoping it will become obvious.
For this, are you saying I should NOT break the glass on the fuse and use that wire?
You mean I can actually use the whole thing? I'll need to find a really small one, which I don't think I have, so it doesn't get crushed or cause the case not to close properly when I put everything back together.
Does it have to be a 2 amp fuse?
Lastly, and forgive me for being ignorant on this fuse type, but do I need to use a 2 amp glass fuse? Does it matter?
The power point is correct - its normally soldered there. There are other 3.3V points on the board but I've always used that one as well. You can remove the glass from the fuse as well. Heat the ends up and remove the caps. THen solder the fuse wire over the blown fuse. I've done that a few times as well and it seems to work well. Just make sure you don't short out any other components.
Its rated at 2A, so its best to replace it with the same rating.