sorry that was aimed at urmele
@urmele
so how did you do the mods on your ps2 specifically
1a. power save
1b. hdl only
2a. on=hdl-hdd to ps2
2b. off=hdl-hdd to usb
3a. on=hdl-hdd1
3b. off=hdl-hdd2
Printable View
sorry that was aimed at urmele
@urmele
so how did you do the mods on your ps2 specifically
1a. power save
1b. hdl only
2a. on=hdl-hdd to ps2
2b. off=hdl-hdd to usb
3a. on=hdl-hdd1
3b. off=hdl-hdd2
@snake3
Thanks for the info!
I have done a lot of reserch this weekend and got it to run flawlessly.
What i have done was the following:
--Removed the wire from pin 6 (+7V - - +7.6V CD-ROM Drive Power)
because it's not used on the MC's themselfs.
--Connected pin 8 (1 DAT in positive Serial Output data) instead of pin 6 to
the switch. After that your mode works fine for all the MC's (with the same
switch you used, but the MC-Slot is disabled that way).
--If you also like to use the MC slot, you need another switch:
http://docs-europe.origin.electrocom...6b80032e26.pdf
Three Pole
Model No.:
5659AB
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Buy in Germany:
http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA...9e6b037bd01eb2
Miyama-Kippschalter (MS-500 N) 3-pol. Ein-Aus-Ein
-------------------------------------------------------------
http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/1m33...-on/dp/1550189
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/49976.pdf
Model No.:
3PDT 1M33
or 4PDT 1M43
----------------------------------------------------------------
--To use all the functions, you need to solder also pin 1 (CLK- out negative
Serial Clock) to the 3-pol switch.
You also could use another one, but i decided to disable the CLK signal.
--Now you are good to go;)
P.s.:I used the pins from your diagrams, not the real ones from the MC.
@dlsmd
Please search for the ultimate PS2 Combo or just search for some old threads
started by me. If you have more question regarding the mode please post in the related thread.
thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by urmele
I forgot to mention, that the mode with the 3x switch
works only for the internal memory cards if there is no memory card
in the slot.
If you want to use the slot, adjust the switch to the midle and start the PS2 again.
And about the position of the switch in my picture before,
i had to remove this switch and exchange it with the bigger one,
so normaly it's not a good position to place the big one there (i had to do some more sacrifices to make it fit, but it wasn't that easy).
Maybe snake3 can find a better place for the switch (unfortunately i was stuck
with my one, because i already made the cut out).
Please let me know whether or not it still works. I am looking to do this myself and want to make sure it works.
Also, I want to hook up leds from the +3v to gnd to make sure I know what card I'm on (Doing 6 cards (4 internal cards, and disconnecting 2nd slot(2nd slot never works for anything anyway) to make 2 external slots)). Do you think that will work (Given I use the proper resistor to match the led). I don't want to do the 3v to ACK mod that everyone does b/c that one only flashes when accessing the card. I want the correct LED to be always-on for a particular card at a time.
In example:
Switch position____Memory card or slot currently selected/working and which LED is lit
1__________________First internal card soldered-----LED number 1 is lit
2__________________Second internal card soldered-----LED number 2 is lit
3__________________Third internal card soldered-----LED number 3 is lit
4__________________Fourth and final internal card, soldered-----LED number 4 is lit
5__________________Slot one, any card in that slot-----LED number 5 is lit
6__________________Slot two, any card in that slot-----LED number 6 is lit
BTW, this is the only hardware mod I want done to my PS2. I don't deal with loaders or anything like that; I have a PC for music/movies. I collect PS2 games (191 and counting) so that is why I need all the memory card space I can get. Also, if you read reviews, nearly ALL non Sony 8mB cards don't work or don't work properly with all games. The only ones that work properly are the Katana multipage memory cards but those are OFFICIALLY liscenced/sponsored by Sony. I have one Katana 4 page and multiple sonys. For all the naysayers that say >8mB cards work, look into how computers address memory locations and find out what the maximum address space for saving to the PS2 memory card is. It's a hardware limitation. For this reason, I'd like an experienced answer(Someone who only used Sony 8mb. Murele, your cool cuz you seem to have put A LOT of effort into this so I would love any advice, even though you have a 64mB in the mix.) that involves testing with Sony 8mB cards. But especially Snake3, you said it works flawlessly and all I want is to have a 6 card switch and if it works for you, for two cards, it should work for anyone, even for a thousand cards. - SINCERELY THANKS FOR ANYONE WHO COULD NOT ONLY CLAIM THE PROPER WAY TO DO THIS BUT ALSO DOCUMENT WHY AND WHICH PINS ARE TO BE SWITCHED. If there was an 8 pole, 6 position rotary switch, at a decent price/size, and not require 19 lbs of force to rotate, I wouldn't be asking any of this.
MAIN FINAL QUESTION: WHICH PINS SHOULD I HAVE THE SWITCH ON ( I have a dual pole, 6 position rotary switch ). Am I only switching the power to the cards therefore cutting off their logic even though the dats and cmds, and acks, etc are all in parrallel, so if there is only logic(+3v) on one board(mem card) at a time, then only that card should do anything with the signal on those data lines, even though those data signals are "reaching" the other "dim" or "non +3volted" mem cards.
Also, another anti-theory: Why would you need to switch the clock? The clock is hard wired to ALL memory card slots, yet somehow, on certain multi card enabled games, the PS2 can determine between the two memory card slots. Also, to add, I've googled around and found that MOST electronics us a single parallel clk rail. Meaning, all devices that need syncing use a singal signal to judge when to do stuff.
Also; According to docs I found online (Google: Playstation 2 memory card ack cmd vcc clk) if the ack signal isn't sensed in a matter of microseconds (usec) the ps2 will assume there is no memory card present.
According to urmele its the 3v and dat? But apparently the 3v and 7v work just fine for Snake3. What is the definitive answer here? Thanks.
Also, I've been trying to PM both Snake3 and urmele and I am, apparently, not allowed to PM. Why would that be?
Mate this thread is nearly 2 years old!!!! i doubt i have seen any posts from these guys for a long time.
you cant PM because there is a 30 day and 30 post rule imposed by the new owners to stop spam. you can visit their profiles and leave a visitor message but Wether they answer is another matter.
By the way FMCB can use the second slot . i have mine set this way. i have a 16Mb card in slot 1 for saves and the 8Mb card with FMCB in slot 2. boots perfectly.
Thank you so much for clearing the forum rules up for me.
███ How to build a PS2 Memory Card Switcher ███
I am going to very thoroughly test and document the PS2 Memory Card Switcher that I am making.
I will post the tutorial/documentation here as well as my website when it is complete.
<->Build completed ETA<-> - Monday night (July 2 - 2012)
<>Built Status Update 1:Got back from work and was able to at least get the "memory card interface" started. So far I have the "frame" with knob, led holes, and MC reader holes made. The "memory card interface" is the cable that goes from the "switcher" to a sacrificed memory card that plugs into the PS2. Used an ethernet cable (Perfect since it has 8 wires (7 significant pins on MC) and is good for at least 100mb/s as far as line impedance/resistance) to connect the "frame" to the "interface memory card".
<>Build Status Update 2 June 30:This morning I was able to make the internal "wire-up-harness" but I think the gauge wire I'm using is too thick. I will try to redo it tomorrow with some ethernet wire. It's stranded so it should be ok. Here's hoping it works.
<>Build Status Update 3 July 1:This morning I redid the wire harness/MC interface. I also wired up the parallels (cmd, clock, gnd, etc) for the most part. I still have some work ahead of me but here's hoping I get it finished by lunch time tomorrow. If not, I should at least be done by about 2-3.5 hours before sundown. Plenty of time to do preliminary tests and post whether or not the "final build" is successful or not. I did do a dry test (twisting cables together with electrical tape) and everything seems fine for now. Working as expected by switching the 3v and dat but that's with unplugging the MC interface, doing the switch over (again, it's manual twisting at this point), then replugging the MC interface into the PS2. However, it is looking very hopeful and stay tuned Snake3 and urmele for my appreciation in allowing me to even think this is possible. Should all go well, I will list you guys first, foremost, above, and end all, as the originators, and full owners of the idea to do this. I simply am just making it "disconnectable" and a little larger scale (6x cards vs 2x cards) and with identification LED's to know which card you're switched to. That and I will document the $**t out of it so that people may be more "trusting" of such a tutorial. Not that you guys didn't do a GREAT job, it's just that I believe some games (Probably a list of 25 or so) being tested with it would put a little more faith into those folks who are running out of MC space (Even those of you with 128mb cards or multipage cards.) and need to do such a build. Goodnight to all reading this (and good day to those who don't get to it in time to read it fresh off the press) and I hope I finally finish this bad boy as the anxiety over it's completion has literally been killing me (Don't think about a project like this while crossing a busy road on no less than a busy day!) Ok not literaly, but almostly. So far I am ahead of schedule and should have that documentation up tomorrow night if ALL goes well.
<>Build Status Update 4 again:I had trouble with connecting to the website and lost ALL of my progress in writing this very update. I will skip to the good stuff. Finished building the MC Switcher. It works, but Katana 4 pagers are dimly lit (The red light behind the number declaring which page is currently selected) when not selected. I will be rewiring, again, hopefully this time will prove perfect. It works, saves and loads, but I don't like those dim lights. I troubleshot and think I have the answer. Stay tuned but as of now, I think I will be behind schedule for at least 2 days if not 3-4 days.
<->Docs completed ETA<-> - Wednesday night (July 4 - 2012)
Quick picture so that you guys get the picture...No pun intended.
Code:NOTE* Not drawn to scale
That is a PS2 with two memory card slots - Shown by [brackets]
│
│ That little black block is the MC interface with
│ the "equals sign wire" plugged into the switcher
│ │
│ │
│ V
V
┌---┐
│ │
│PS2[
│ [█=====█████████ \
│ │ █ █ MC Slot 1 \
└---┘ █████████ \
█ █ MC Slot 2 \
█████████ \
█ █ MC Slot 3 \That is the
█████████ /Memory Card Switcher
█ █ █ █ █ Where the LEDs are /
█████████ /
███ ███ Where the Knob is /
█████████ /
As you can see. It has 3 MC slots and 6 LEDs(Well not really but ascii art is hard.)
The first three LEDs(Hoping they even work) will display which slot is selected.
The last three LEDs will display which internally soldered card is selected.
There are three internally soldered memory cards for 7 very good reasons.
1--I have a small project box
2--I want a small project box
3--It's cool to have "archival" memory cards built into the switch
4--I only extracted 4 memory card slots from a spare multitap I had
5--Larger boxes cost more and I already spent a lot on parts/tools
6--With a possible total of 15 memory cards (Using the Katana 4 pagers) who needs more?
7--Because Mike T. thaid tho.
<<<MY THEORIES ON HOW TO GET THIS PUPPY TO WORK!>>>
1 - In order for the PS2 to talk to the memory card and vice versa, the MC needs 3v to actually "think"; That it's not just a bank of memory. It is a bank of memory with a controller/encryptor(Magic Gate). I looked at some PS2 MC docs online and found that for anything to happen (any memory to be sent or written by the MC) a "command" must be sent FIRST. This theory runs parallel with urmele's edit on Snake3's idea.
1a--[SWITCH 3v and CMD] {Keep all other pins connected on the same "rails" in parrallel} (Disconnect 7.5v as that seems not to be used by anything except controllers)
2 - The docs state that the PS2 will think that the MC is "not there" if the ACK signal does not go through within a small amount of time, about 10-60ish micro seconds depending on which document your reading (This I will try by simply taping the ACK pin on a test MC and inserting it. If I don't see the card in the browser, that should be a safe route);
2a--Use tape on ack pin to see if card is recognized (I will try not only in browser but also games. I will try to switch the memory card really fast during a game load to see if the PS2 thinks the same card was put back in and redo the load. If does the load again(obviously a different save file) or loads partial data, I will know it failed.)
2b--[SWITCH 3v and ACK] {Keep all other pins connected on the same "rails" in parrallel} (Disconnect 7.5v as that seems not to be used by anything except controllers)
-----I could just have a switch that has 8 poles but again, I'm trying to get away with just basic parts I can get locally at the "shack of radios" and hardware/auto parts stores. Just a little challenge I'm setting for myself. That and I'm afraid that a large switch like that will cost a whole lot and have many points of possible failure and be hard to turn.
-----I just had an idea. What about using transistors?! What if all I do is switch the 3v on banks of transistors that in turn shut off the other lines! I need to look into that as well. My key concerns are the following with using transistors:
1 - Are they huge amp hogs. I don't want to drain the dinky ps2 power supply.
2 - Are they reliable. I don't want half to shut off half the time.
3 - Can they transmit high frequency fluctuations.
4 - Is there anything you need to use with them. Capacitors, diodes, etc...
5 - Do I need to reverse the current to open them back up or do they reset when there is no forward current(off is off).
6 - Is there risk of interference. Say the 3v leaking into the ack, cmd, etc...
***I will not be using transistor switches if one of my previous theories works.***
now this i can help with.
transistors can be used as switches and often are. no they will not drain if you use small signal transistors. BC547/548 come to mind.
to switch a transistor you need to apply either 0v or full power rail volts. this will turn the transistor full on or full off depending on what type you have and how it is wired in circuit.
small signal transistors have a high Hfe ( gain) so they do not act as an amplifier. they also use mA of current to turn on and off. you cant let the base of the transistor open with no voltage or it wont work reliably either.
what you will need to do is use a resistor to pull the base to 0v and use the switch to supply the 3v via another resistor to the base to turn it on. it will be a lot more work and require a few more parts than the original switch idea.
an advantage of this design would be the ability to add an LED to the circuit to indicate which transistor is switched on and therefore which MC is active. been quite a few years since i have had to muck around with electronics at that level so i dont have any cad progs to draw up a possible circuit but i am sure you can google a few quite easily.
this explains some basics of transistors
How to Make Simple Electronic Circuits Using Transistor BC547
I will be putting the LED's in parallel with the GND which is a "rail" with all the MCs, while the 3v that I'm switching will run right through the correct LED.
ASCII DIAGRAM:
Now the switch is a dual pole so I'll be trying DAT or ACK signals as well.Code:3v---->Switch
|
| Common Ground
V |
----------█Pos1--->LED--->|
| |
| -------█Pos2--->LED--->|
| | |
| | ----█Etc --->LED--->|
| | |
| | ----Etc Memory Card3v pins
| |------Second Memory Card3v pin
|---------First Memory Card3v pin
LED means LED + Resistor. Just LED to save space.
If any of those work, no need for transistors, but if it doesn't, I will need to go by your recomendation which is, needless to say, above and beyond the call of duty, which I GREATLY appreciate and congradulate. You are a fine gentlemen and deserve recognition for your diligence in helping me with this and being so respectfull of such an old thread and such a new forum member. *bows to seasoned forum member
LED's have a forward voltage of 1.5V if you put 3 V across them you could burn them out. a red LED requires only about 10 mA to turn on using ohms law , you have to drop 1.5 V at 10 mA means around a 150 ohm resister in series to limit current.put resistor before LED .