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Request for a Main Thread how to fix YLOD
Request for a Main Thread how to fix YLOD –
After all the new possibilities of the PS3 i also bought one for myself
(an old 60GB broken one with YLOD).
Today i tried to fix it by using this guide:
But unfortunately without a big success.
Anyways, it starts up now without the YLOD and the green LED remains on,
no shut down any longer, but i don't get any picture on the screen.
If i insert a DVD it also sounds like it is booting it normally.
There are so many information scattered here in the forum about fixing
the YLOD, that it really is a pain in the ass to find any complete and useful
Therefore i guess it would be a great help for all the people with the same problem, if the Mods could create a specific Thread for it.
YLOD repair –
hey dude, regarding your post, i been able to fix YLOD, the problem with your ps3 is that the balls that connect the CPU or GPU (note that the yellow light commonly appears when one of those chips fails) ok so what you need to do is to take both GPU and CPU off the motherboard, (note that u need advanced soldering skills and experience, this aint easy, and some more tools, i can provide you the info just let me know) so when you have taken them off you need to remove all the soldering from the chip, and reball them, then you will need to solder them back in the mother board. ive fixed 5 ps3 with YLOD, anyways you will need 0.5mm stencils, 0.5mm 0.5mm solering balls, flux, heat gun (its recommended that you use special guns for soldering electronic devices, floor crap will just make your soldering balls fly) anyways that should do the trick the guide you posted sometimes work, when theres not a lot of damage in the balls underneath the processors, but if it is too much damage the only thing you will cause is create a short circuit in the console (your case) just do that and i do guarantee itīll work, unless of course the gpu or cpu are internally damage wich is not that easy to happen
Did you try resetting the PS3 hold down the power button till it beeps.
I use to buy YLOD systems and repair them. my longest one lasted a month the only way to really fix these are to have them reballed which is extremely hard to do. I used gilsky's method on youtube if you want tot check it out.
Thanks for the info,
Originally Posted by yozh
i'm actually a skilled solderer, i can solder any fine pitch chip to any board by hand or remove it without damage, but i never reballed a chip like those.
Another option i have is to give the board to one of our manufacturers from the company i work and he just can reflow the whole thing (but i'm not sure
if this will work with all the plastic parts on it).
Maybe i will study a little bit about reball stuff and do it then.
Your tip with holding down the power button till it beeps actually worked.....
Originally Posted by sgnmg4ever
that's crazy hehehe
Now i get a picture, but the HDD inside is not formated, because the guy i bought it from switched the 500GB one which was normally inside with a 320GB HDD and formated it before (that filthy rat sold it to me on Ebay with a 500GB HDD and then switched it before he shipped it....).
But there is also another problem.
I actually bought two of the old ones and so i am able to compare.
The good one keeps it's fan on low state after i switch it on (it also has the
original 60GB HDD inside which works).
There is no big sound from the fan.
But the one i just fixed speeds up the fan short after i switch it on, and
then after some seconds it speeds up the fan again (i guess it's the last
internal fan adjustment to compensate the heat).
So there is probably some sort of short cut or failure which i need to fix.
Maybe i need to head it all up again during a second round.
Do you have any more tips for me regarding this isue?
Does somebody have a picture for me from the actual chips (CPU and GPU)
from the bottom?
Are the old fat 60GB PS3 models still soldered with lead?
Is there also a link how to reball?
I doubt they are soldered with lead. Japan and I think China both have laws against using Leaded solder, and if I recall correclty they have been in effect since 01 or 03.
as it has been said reballing is the best method
in order to do a proper reball you will need an IR rework station and the cheapest i have seen that can do this kind of work is the T-870A they are around $900
http://www.break.com/usercontent/201...ncil-1-1784749 < this video is showing how to reball a xbox but the procedure is the same for the ps3
About my problem with the noise fan after the YLOD repair,
i made some tests and figured out, that it actually is the thermal sensor in the CPU/GPU which gave me the headaches (not much of a clue i know, but still).
The first time i opened it, i saw, that there was a lot of heat sink paste on the chips, so i removed it and put on a little bit less.
But i still had the efect, that the fan was goin up to level 6 and 7 (of 7).
You could use the PS3 to dry your hair hehehe.
After that i used some rubber heat sink leaf (foil),
but with that the fan speeds up to level 7 and then the PS3 just shuts down.
Now i took a closer look on the metal heat sink part itself and recognized, that the manufacturing of the surface is actually very cheap.
You can see all the marks from the milling on the surface which prevents
the heat flow massively.
I guess sony knows exactly why they manufactured it that way
So, i just used some very thin sand paper which is only good for polishing
on the surface and put on some heat sink paste...very very thin!
After that the PS3 fan runs on normal use on level 4 and heavy gameplay on level 5.
It's still not funny with all that noise, but it works
My next stepp will be to bring the whole heat sink to a metal manufacturer
and get off the milling marks completely (i guess 0.08mm will do the trick).
Doin it all by hand is much to risky in that case, because due to my
experiences it realy is very very case sensitive!
Also the use of a high quality heat sink paste will help a lot i guess.
Maybe that way i can diminish the YLOD for a long time (hope so)
I wonder if somebody tried to fix the YLOD by use of some soldering fluid?
What i mean is, normally you only heat up the CPU/GPU.
But you also could inject some soldering liquid under the chips first
and heat it up then.
I have a special hot air blower in our company, especially made to desolder
some big fine pich chips.
Unlike a standard hot air blower, i guess, with that one i am able to really melt
the balls under the chips, so it might be an advantage to use some soldering liquid around, but i'm not so sure.
Maybe it's more worth with it, than without.
Has somebody tried it before?
I also have another question.
Today i made contact with one of our electronics manufacturer and asked him if it would be possible to heat up the complete mainboard in one of his
special ofen (sorry, don't know the name).
He told me, that it might be possible, because the thing is very quick and it
takes only a couple of seconds to send it through.
So, my question is, are there some special plugs on the board (plastic parts)
which are normally soldered to the board after the whole main chips?
(Because they might not be able to withstand the heat during this process).
Last edited by urmele; 10-05-2010 at 12:36 PM.