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PS3 Reflow help? –
Well I got a broken 60gb PS3. It wasn't outputting any video, but it turned on with a green LED. I tried to reflow the first time, I ended up with a YLOD (fan would spin up VERY fast, then shut off). The second time I reflowed, YLOD was gone, light stayed green, but there is no video or audio coming out. WHY?!?! Video reset doesn't work, as it just shuts off the PS3 after 8 seconds.
what was your reflow method? did you use flux? I'm asking because I'm going to attempt the same thing as soon as my flux gets here
i reflowed with an Oven at 425 for 9 mins, came out smoken but works FINE... no probelsm with anything, no flux, no need for flux, jsut bake it, let it sit for 20 mins, then replace, i used a mix of 2 thermal compunds cuz i didnt have any more..
I dont like heat gun.. i think the oven is by far the best .. after all the board was made in a microwave.
hey do u have an update on the video working or not? if so what did you do? i just did a reflow and my ylod went away and everything seems to be in good working order it will stay on forever but no video
zant, you have a dead gpu!!
What do you mean by "dead". Unrevivable? I'm curious, because I have the same symptoms after somebody tried to reflow the motherboard and ended up with the green light on the PS3, but no video, or audio for that matter.
Originally Posted by prometeia
Has anybody that knows how to check for component failures on the motherboard and how to check for their functionality tried looking at a board with these symptoms?
Originally Posted by 2daysago
From my experience, if the system turns on with just a green blinking light I have found that the gpu needs more pressure to be applied. The best way to do this is to add washers to the screws on the metal braces like the picture. I only do this to the gpu. I am not sure if this repair method would apply to just a solid green light with no video/audio.
I don't have any experience with taking the motherboard apart or how the heat shield and the various pieces interact with each other, but would the adding of a washer not make the screw shaft bottom out against either the heat shield, motherboard or some other part without transferring the additional pressure. What about using another flange that would double the amount of pressure instead of a washer? Do you thing that it would be too thick? Too much pressure? I have two spare from an eBay purchase.
What would happen if there is too much pressure between the RSX and the motherboard? Could it possibly make it worse?
Is the audio also related to RSX?
I think by default the screws are supposed to bottom out since the brace clamps flex to apply pressure between the heatsink and the RSX (see pic). Adding the 1mm washers causes the brace clamps to flex just a little bit more (or tighten more) which makes the pressure of the heatsink tighter against the RSX. That has been my remedy on all of the consoles I have repaired with the green blinking led.
Originally Posted by 2daysago
When you say flange, do you mean the brace clamp? If yes then adding a second one would be too thick as the screws aren't long enough. Adding the washer seems to add good enough pressure for the console to boot and work correctly. I have never put too much pressure between the RSX and mobo so I can't answer that, but I am sure nothing good would come of it.
As for audio having any relation to the RSX, I can't help you there as I always assumed it to be just a GPU chip.
I did mean flex clamps. I just didn't know the correct term. I think I will try your method. Of all of the other methods it sounds like the best to use on the motherboard and still accomplish the same end result.
From the picture I can see at least one washer. Is there another washer under the visible one? Have you had any stripped screws as a result of adding this type of additional pressure? Would pressing down on the flex clamp as I screw it down help get that additional pressure or would it eventually strip once I let go after finishing?