Burner on crack

[Primenal]

Some weird shit...Anyways, I have a Lite-on LDW-411S dvd burner. I inserted a pc game, and it made a small sound, flashed 4 times, and then wouldn't load. After this it would do the same thing no matter what I put in. So, I figured i'd try to fix it. I read up about drivers, and firmware...I updated the firmware, and since I updated it it just flashes twice now, and doesn't make that sound (believes it's a good thing). NOW, though it's very strange cuz I also have a regular DVD ROm Drive. Somehow there connected to eacother...Like when I go into my computer and hit eject...Both drives shoot out together. I hit the actual eject button on the burner, and sometimes the dvd rom drive pops out too!!!! I try to load something on the dvd burner, and the dvd rom drive is like trying to load something LOL. This aint really that big of deal (although it freaking me out cuz I dunno WTF I did), but I could always take the regular drive out...
Anyways though, I need help fixing my burner. Any idea what's wrong?

[idiiot]

Take it to rehab.................................Seriously though if you've updated the firmware etc and it doesnt work (update it again just to check) check the manufacturer's website or you might need to call them. If you built the comp yourself I'd open it up and double check everything (connections to mobo etc) including how your two drives are connected. If you have a warranty it'd be easier to take it in and get it checked out if you're not familiar with the innards of a computer. One question though. Which drive is the primary and the slave?

[uns97]

You should check the IDE cable, and if you have access to another computer you should check the writer into that aswell. If the same error happens there, your writer is gone for good, bring that back it's probably still under warranty.

regards, Stephen

ps: if the writer was deffective, it would sound like the drive internal controller problem. *non repairable unfortunatelly*

[Primenal]

Now the IDE cable is like the little wire with like 4 holes? Cuz they sent me one of those, but I never bothered putting it in...The burner worked without it so didn't figure I had to have it. I've tried the burner on both Master, and Slave though. I'll try customer support tomorrow, and if that don't work I still have a warranty on it I believe.

[Law]

No your IDE cable is the larger/wider Gray cable. Comes out from the back of the drive and into your motherboard. Now do you have both drives conected to the same IDE cable (remeber what that is, I just told you) If so this maybe an area of cause. Check it out and let us know

Law

[Reggie1]

Yea, you should try cleaning it but he just got that burner not to long ago. If you still have warranty take it back instead, Or just throw it up againts the wall and hope it work eh prim

[Primenal]

SO ANGRY!!! EERRRR!!!!

I still don't understand Law...Do you mean the little things that say P4, P3, etc..and plug into the burner? That's all I know you could be talking about

[Law]

Is there not a large grey cable coming out of the back of the drive?? If not what cable is coming out if you can explaine it.

Law

[Law]

Do you mean the little things that say P4, P3, etc..and plug into the burner?

No those are your power supplys

Law

[RAISTLIN]

Prim, look for a wide connector. It will be the widest one hooked to the drive--40 pins in two rows. Typically, the connector is either grey or black. The cable is usually gray with a colored stripe on one of the wires on the outside. It should be plugged in right next to the white 4-pin plug that has red, black, and yellow wires connecting to it (this is the power cable).

Ideally, your burner should be at one end of the cable, your motherboard at the other, with the plain reader in between. The burner should be set either as "Cable Select" (CS) or "Master with Slave Present" (varies by drive). The Reader should be set as either "Cable Select" or "Slave". If this is an 80-pin IDE cable (ATA-133), one of the end connectors may be one color (usually blue) while the others are a different color (usually black). This end should be plugged to the motherboard (many newer boards have a blue connecoter to correspond to the blue cable connector). Most boards and drives have the connectors keyed so the cable can only be connected one way, but some OEM's will not have the plastic guides around the pins. If this is the case, the motherboard should have a screenprinted outline around the connector. In one corner of this diagram, there should be a "1" or a "2"--some may just have one corner cut off with a \ mark or a star inside the angle. The side of the cable with the colored stripe needs to be on this end of the connector. For the drive, the striped side goes on the side next to the power cable (red/black/yellow wires).

The first thing you should try is to connect each drive by itself, jumpered as "Master Only" or "Cable Select" and connected at the end of the cable. If the drive functions properly when by itself on the cable, then they are both fine. They just don't want to get along with each other on the cable. You may need to check the BIOS settings to make sure that both Master and Slave are enabled on the IDE Channels (set them all to enabled/Auto Detect is the easiest thing). Then, it should be a matter of trial and error to get the right jumper configuration for them to get along. Usually, the DVD-R works best as Master or Cable select in the Master position (end) of the Secondary IDE channel, with the reader set as Slave on the middle connector.

Accessing the BIOS varies from system to system. Most can be accessed by hitting either the F1, F2, Insert, Escape or Delete key when the system first displays information on the screen. Some require combining a key with the Control key, so you need to watch for a prompt to enter setup. There will usually be a message near the bottom of the screen telling you which key to hit. If it boots too fast to see it, you can hit the "Pause" key right after you power it up, give it a few seconds for the monitor to "warmup" and show the information. Hitting any other key will resume the startup sequence, and you can hit it again to pause it when the output changes. You may need to pause/continue it a few times before you see the messages--they can go by very fast sometimes. Once you get in there, the settings for detecting the drives are often on the main page, but can be buried in the second or third option, depending on the BIOS. On some systems, there will be a completely seperate heading for IDE Devices altogether, or some may be in a "PCI Options" or "Advanced Chipset" section. You may have to poke around a bit. You want Master and Slave enabled for Primary and Secondary IDE channels, DMA Enabled--if you set everything to Auto Detect, it should set this for you no problem. When exiting, be sure to choose the option to Save and Exit, unless you want it to discard all changes you made.

Once you get them configured properly in BIOS and Hardware, you need to make sure the operating system has configured them properly. You'll need to get to the properties of the drive and/or IDE controller in the Device Manager, found in the system applet under Control Panel on your Windows Start Menu. You can also right-click My Computer on the desktop and select properties--from there, goto the DeviceManager or Hardware tabs to get the list of devices. You want to make sure the drives and/or controllers are detecting the same settings as your BIOS--PIO or DMA modes. On W2K/XP machines, you may need to toggle them to use DMA if available. In Win 9x there is a check-box to enable DMA. If your system is using a UDMA66 controller, there may be issues with the firmware/driver for that controller. You may need to check that vendor's website for updates. There is a registry fix for some UDMA66 problems, but I forget exactly where it is at the moment. I can post the key and values later if someone needs it.

Fek......this is getting long even for me......

N E way...

That should cover most of the setup detals.

Good luck!

Raist