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Originally Posted by
thals1992
That's what I thought. I noticed its super easy to open the datel mamory cards. There isn't any clips holding it down.
Too easy IMO. I've had some cases where the internal PCB tilted a bit, causing loss of interface connection.
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The 32mb has a branded "gate-crasher" in it. I noticed its a similar board design to the 16mb version. Both oddly have pins on the other side of the card. not sure what thats for.
Most likely those are connection points for test equipment, used to weed out substandard units.
And that's one of the reasons why Datel has a good reputation for reliable PS2 memory cards.
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Another thing I noticed is that its been completely blocked on the slim models even with the boot disk. Thats what I getfor buying something on the bleeding edge at the time for something that might be blocked
That method was highly dubious from the start, as it relied on a system-altering device driver to remain in RAM during a game session.
(Which might crash that driver at any time.) And of course it was simple for Sony to recognize and block that driver in future models.
Assuming that the 'gate-crasher' has sufficient Magic-Gate compatibility (same as my Datel MCs), that is the MC you need to use.
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I still have the official u3 remove utility for the flash drive from a while back (I recently noticed the u3 webpage is gone);
The U3 page was never a good place to download that utility anyway, as it's the drive manufacturers that are responsible for supplying the removal tool. The U3 software makers are not involved in that part at all. You should only use a removal tool that either came with your drive originally, or was later downloaded from the makers of that drive, and specified as intended for that particular model.
eg: Once I tried to use an old removal tool for a Sandisk drive for a later nearly identical Sandisk drive, and temporarily 'bricked' it, making all normal partition access impossible. I then checked the Sandisk site and found that the newer model had a different removal tool... Fortunately I was able to 'unbrick' the drive by first reinstalling the U3 garbage again, and then removing it with the correct tool. But it was sheer luck that this restored functionality...
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I'm not sure I'm going to do that, Because I have u3tool installed a windows xp iso to the cd part.
But is that really helping you do anything you want to do ?
Because if not, then it deserves to be purged anyway.
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On another note, does anyone know if there is an issue with the ps2 exploit 5.0 using it on Windows 7 x64.
I was at first not sure exactly what you meant by "ps2 exploit 5.0".
But after googling that phrase I found that this is how some people describe one of the most ancient MC boot methods.
The 'version 5.0' part only refers to a PC program to help preparing some boot data files, not any real difference in PS2-side methods.
Normally the term "PS2 exploit" is used only about that old MC exploit which stopped working ages ago (only worked on the old fat PS2 models).
While some people may also call newer methods like FMCB a "ps2 exploit" as well, most homebrewers never call it that, to avoid mixups.
So that 'ps2 exploit 5.0' method will only work with an old fat PS2, but not for any of the slim models.
In any case you'll probably have to run any old PS2-related PC software in 32-bit backwards compatibility mode on the newer OS versions.
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I recently noticed all the older programs are crap on Win8 (Like vista when it came around) and the noobie version is not so simple after all,
'noobie' OS versions should always be avoided, as they are likely to provide you with permanent non-reversible system handicaps.
This has always been true, as in all Windows 'Home Edition' variants. The only Windows OS variants worth using are 'Pro' or 'Server' variants.
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because I don't have a good flashdrive smaller than 2 gb. idk if there is a size limit. AR seems to find its total freespace in kb, so I am a little confused why it says 0kb available.
If you're still talking about the U3 drive, then the reason is obvious, as its filesystem is incompatible.
You can never have that drive recognized by any PS2 software unless you first remove the U3 crap and reformat to a normal FAT32 partition.
As for size limits, most PS2 homebrews run into trouble at 1TiB (so 1024 GiB), as that is where the 32-bit count of 512-byte sectors gets its top bit set, thus turning it into a negative number. Since the current homebrew device drivers use 32-bit sector indexes and use negative return values for error messages, this sets an absolute limit of 1TiB. So your 2GB drive should be quite safe to use.
However, I'm less sure of how commercial software like AR works.
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I also foung a usb microsd/m2 reader dongle. I'm going to try that when I can get around to it.
It stands as good a chance of working as any other USB drive, at least with modern PS2 homebrews.
(Older homebrew device drivers were more picky, working well with far fewer drives.)
Best regards: dlanor
