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Thread: DVD burning tips
  

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  1. #1 DVD burning tips 
    codone is offline Member
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    I posted this in the Final Fantasy problem thread, but thought others might be interested in this topic, so I made a new thread for it.
    --------------------

    I buy 12x - 16x media.... I ALWAYS burn at 8x (which burns at 6x for the first 10% and 8x at the last 90%). I never had one issue with PS2 backups, Wii backups, GC backups, or DVD movies on any of my players.

    This is using many different brands of media also. Note that when you burn at 16x, it really only gets to 16x speed at the very last minute or so of burning. To see the actual burning speed, use IMGBURN and watch the Write Rate -- you can see when it switches speeds. I found that burning at 8x is only about 1-2 minutes slower than burning at 16x (not 1/2 speed like you would think).

    Another hint -- overall I read and think myself that "Taiyo Yuden" brand is the best DVDs over any others. They are more expensive (abt 60 cent for inkjet printable, last time I bought them -- the price is always dropping), but not too bad. Also, ALWAYS verify your burn! Nero and Imgburn both will do this automatically. It takes a few more minutes but it's worth it! Not that I ever get verify errors with Taiyo Yuden.... Remember that a blank disc CAN be scratched, and if you don't verify you are screwed! Also, I look at each disc when I go to burn one under a very bright desklamp, you will see dust / debris that you never would have known was there. I gently wipe the debris off with an eye-glasses cleaning material, then pop it into the burner.

    Hope this info helps someone -- regards,
    Codone
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  2. #2  
    files21 is offline Registered User
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    not ''tips'' for me
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  3. #3  
    nemesis01 is offline arrrr...penguins!!!!!!!
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    I don't agree with using verify to check the disc, visual inspection of the disc is more than enough for me, and always seems to do the trick. I also use 16x media, people do say to burn the media at it's rated speed which I do for DVD-Video and DATA, but not for PS2, I personally never go above 4x and, well it works for me.

    As for brands/DYE/MID, I have used 3 types without problems on PS2:

    Verbatim MCC-004 DVD+R
    Sony16D1 DVD-R
    TDK 003 DVD+R
    Verbatim MKM-001-00 DVD+R DL

    When burning +r I always make sure to set the booktype to DVD-ROM, well it does it automatically in my burner anyway but I would do it anyway.
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  4. #4  
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    TnA
    TnA is offline Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by codone View Post
    Also, ALWAYS verify your burn! Nero and Imgburn both will do this automatically. It takes a few more minutes but it's worth it!
    That wouldn't bring you to anywhere,...
    A real quality-test is the only right way, to verify quality.
    This checks only check for defect (uncorrectable) sectors(/Errors).
    To verify the quality, you need a Jitter-Testing-Tool, which is capable of reading C1 and C2-Errors (correctable).
    PS2 V7/DMS3 V2 (FW:2.4b7); Seagate Baracuda 200GB
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  5. #5  
    codone is offline Member
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    Ive used Dvdscan with the TY discs, I got 93% quality rating on 4gig images. And that was reading on fastest speed, not "accurate" (slow) which is kinda cheating. But you are right, everyone should run those kinds of tests for themselves. Many times people burning 16x media at 2x get many more correctable errors than if they had used 8x.

    And same goes for burning at 16x -- this will give more (correctable) errors than 8x. It seems that burning at a middle speed is best. Media that is designed to be burned at 16x does not like to be burned at 2x or 4x very much (although I would wager that 4x is still very reliable speed to use). But running the tests for yourself is the key to learning you particular brand of media and burner (I'm using a Pioneer 111)
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  6. #6  
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    TnA
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    The best result I got, was with real "certified" media, not "certified, FROM-TO" (there simply is only ONE certified speed. Not "FROM-TO". If you have a DVD-Media, which is "certified FROM-TO", in reality mostly it is certified for the middle.).

    Best Results with Tayo Yuden and Verbatim 8xCert. "PearlWhite", constantly burned with 8x.

    C1 max. ~40
    C2 max. 1
    Quality 99%

    Verbatim 16xCert-Media burned with 16x (needs upspinning, to reach the speed).

    C1 max. ~250
    C2 max. 2-3
    Quality 97%

    I know, that for example LG-Drives produce a high amount of C1-Errors, when they switch to a higher burning-speed, while burning.

    For example DMC3 burned on one of my LG-Burners.:

    Verbatim
    C1 max. ~1500
    C2 max. ~10-12
    Quality ~80-85%


    Btw.: Most time I use my PIONEER A10XL.

    The first time, I've recognized this issue, was wen the first 8xBurners come up and my old 4xPIONEER-A05 was capable of burning the 8xVerbatim, but produce many C1-Errors (still lower, than LGs! result!).
    I assume, LG hasn't a that good power-calibration, like PIONEER.
    The thing, why it produces high C1-Error-Rate, when it "switches", is simply annoying,...
    PS2 V7/DMS3 V2 (FW:2.4b7); Seagate Baracuda 200GB
    PS2 V7/CC1.0 (FW:34 hacked v2 BM:2.1.6); Maxtor DiamondMAX9 PLUS 160GB
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    3xSony BBA
    3xSony MC 8MB
    MAX/Datel 16MB with Boot-CD
    MAX/Datel 32MB&64MB

    Custom FMCB 1.8b+ Beta-Build, my AIO 0.5, Sony&xRhino-Linux
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