Not booting my backups

I bought a pack of 25 infiniti dvd+r disks that use cmc mag 01 dye which iv heard is a good quality dye but iv burned a backup of my metal gear solid 2 sons of liberty game but all 3 have failed to boot using ESR i updated my ESR to the version 9 beta and still its not booted, i also cleaned the laser using a alcohol wipe but still nothing, i go into ESR menu and it says detecting for a while then says unknown disk or something.

Edit: burned at 4x using imgburn, using freemcboot memory card with noobiepackage.

Yes i patched my iso with ESR gui.

any help please?


Link to the disks i used.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Infiniti-Class...62023671729195

1. Before burning, you should set the speed to 'AWS'.
2. Try another type of DVD-Brand... CMC are not as good as MCC for example... Try Verbatim (for example).

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Originally Posted by TnA

1. Before burning, you should set the speed to 'AWS'.
2. Try another type of DVD-Brand... CMC are not as good as MCC for example... Try Verbatim (for example).

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Thanks for the reply, all previous burns were done on my laptop dvd writer turned external drive, iv just completed a fresh burn at 4x using my pc dvd writer which should be better and ill do another burn using my other ripped ISO of metal gear snake eater using AWS and see how that turns out. altho i think at ADS MAX its going to be a bad burn.:chinscrat

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Originally Posted by eraldorh

Thanks for the reply, all previous burns were done on my laptop dvd writer

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Laptop-DVD-Writers do not produce good results (it was so in past and even seems to be the case for newer drives/writers).

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turned external drive,

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Sorry?! I didn't get this part.

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iv just completed a fresh burn at 4x using my pc dvd writer which should be better

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It should be,... But it still depends on the combination of DVD-Writer and DVD-Rs you use with it, how the quality of a burned disc is...

For example: Try to burn slower than 4x onto a 16xCERTIFIED DVD-R (not those DVD-R's like your CMC which are falsely labeled as 16x for example, but are only certified for let's say 10x... but quality-DVD-R's, which really are certified for higher speeds...) with an old DVD-Writer which can not burn faster than 4x. You will see that the disc burned with 4x will give you a lot better results, when scaning for errors. That's due to the fact that 'burning' is a photo-chemical-process and those older DVD-Writers do not have such a wide power-range and thus can not adjust the laser-power used down to the level needed, when burning to higher-speed-certified discs (faster reaction of the dye, with less energy-consumption).

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and ill do another burn using my other ripped ISO of metal gear snake eater using AWS and see how that turns out.

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AWS is usually the best setting, since it auto-adjusts speed according to the 'lines in a disc'... I don't know how to say it any better to explain it simple.

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Yepp, the AWS altho i think at ADS MAX its going to be a bad burn.:chinscrat

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I guess, you mean AWS again?
Only if your discs use a Fake-Disc-ID (stolen Disc-ID from another manufacturer) and the dye isn't certified for those speeds, which the Disc-ID is linked with in a writers DB.

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Originally Posted by TnA

Laptop-DVD-Writers do not produce good results (it was so in past and even seems to be the case for newer drives/writers).



Sorry?! I didn't get this part.



It should be,... But it still depends on the combination of DVD-Writer and DVD-Rs you use with it, how the quality of a burned disc is...

For example: Try to burn slower than 4x onto a 16xCERTIFIED DVD-R (not those DVD-R's like your CMC which are falsely labeled as 16x for example, but are only certified for let's say 10x... but quality-DVD-R's, which really are certified for higher speeds...) with an old DVD-Writer which can not burn faster than 4x. You will see that the disc burned with 4x will give you a lot better results, when scaning for errors. That's due to the fact that 'burning' is a photo-chemical-process and those older DVD-Writers do not have such a wide power-range and thus can not adjust the laser-power used down to the level needed, when burning to higher-speed-certified discs (faster reaction of the dye, with less energy-consumtion).



AWS is usually the best setting, since it auto-adjusts speed according to the 'lines in a disc'... I don't know how to say it any better to explain it simple.



I guess, you mean AWS again?
Only if your discs use a Fake-Disc-ID (stolen Disc-ID from another manufacturer) and the dye isn't certified for those speeds, which the Disc-ID is linked with in a writers DB.

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I meant it was a laptop burner that i put into an ide encloser and is now an external dvd writer, this writer burns games for my 360 so its not rubbish and my 360 is very picky with media it only allows verbatim because its a hitachi drive, but for arguments sake i burned using my pc burner and this has also failed to work i tried both at 4x and that aws setting you suggested and both disks did not boot.

I cannot go slower than 4x my speeds are 4x,8x,16x if i were to set it lower it was say error and give me the lowest possible speed which is 4x.

I also checked out my ps2 info and it says its a scph 30004, which i think has a crap laser.

:cry::cry::cry:

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Originally Posted by eraldorh

I meant it was a laptop burner that i put into an ide encloser and is now an external dvd writer,

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Ah, o.k.

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this writer burns games for my 360 so its not rubbish and my 360 is very picky with media it only allows verbatim because its a hitachi drive,

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There is nothing which could be compared to a PS2-Drive and how picky it is. :D So unless you didn't do a C1/C2-Errorscan on your burned discs, I would not say that this writer produces good results.

For example: I wrote the example in FAT just to explain how things happen to be and how things could happen. Also I said to use a dvd-writer which can not even burn faster than 4x, since this example doesn't apply as much on those DVD-Writers which are allready able to write 8x and dual-layer-DVD-Rs.

It is a photo-chemical process. Keep that in mind,... A DVD+/-R is like a film in an old analog camera.
The 'shutter' (in a camera) also couldn't be opened to long, since the picture would be too much lighted otherwise...

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but for arguments sake i burned using my pc burner and this has also failed to work i tried both at 4x and that aws setting you suggested and both disks did not boot.

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Well, the prime-suspect are still your discs.
Why are you even feeding your PS2, which will ever be pickier than any XBOX you get, with crap-DVDs?
On a PS2 you should only use 'First-Class-DVD-Media', because if you don't your laser will RIP, in a relative short time...

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I cannot go slower than 4x my speeds are 4x,8x,16x if i were to set it lower it was say error and give me the lowest possible speed which is 4x.

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I NEVER SAID you should burn a disc on 4 or lower with your current DVD-Writer. :crazy:
It was an example to reiterate how the stuff technically and physically works.
I only posted it to explain you how your problems can occur.

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I also checked out my ps2 info and it says its a scph 30004, which i think has a crap laser.

:cry::cry::cry:

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It depends... A few of them already have a KHS-400C, but you probably got a KHS-400B-Version.
Well, you can do some stuff...

-cleaning all lenses and mirrors
-adjusting laser-power (or better said 'adjusting pots')
-...

...but this PS2-Version needs quality-media for sure and burned in the right way, with almost no errors and the DVD-dye must have a high reflectivity after burning (for example you should know that allready from Verbatim. Those are almost golden if your burner uses the correct laser-power and speed.).

Btw.: Sorry! Even thought it is 2PM here, I'm still not fully awake.
It's kind of hard to 'form' a sentence,...:yawn:

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Originally Posted by TnA

Ah, o.k.



There is nothing which could be compared to a PS2-Drive and how picky it is. :D So unless you didn't do a C1/C2-Errorscan on your burned discs, I would not say that this writer produces good results.

For example: I wrote the example in FAT just to explain how things happen to be and how things could happen. Also I said to use a dvd-writer which can not even burn faster than 4x, since this example doesn't apply as much on those DVD-Writers which are allready able to write 8x and dual-layer-DVD-Rs.

It is a photo-chemical process. Keep that in mind,... A DVD+/-R is like a film in an old analog camera.
The 'shutter' (in a camera) also couldn't be opened to long, since the picture would be too much lighted otherwise...



Well, the prime-suspect are still your discs.
Why are you even feeding your PS2, which will ever be pickier than any XBOX you get, with crap-DVDs?
On a PS2 you should only use 'First-Class-DVD-Media', because if you don't your laser will RIP, in a relative short time...



I NEVER SAID you should burn a disc on 4 or lower with your current DVD-Writer. :crazy:
It was an example to reiterate how the stuff technically and physically works.
I only posted it to explain you how your problems can occur.



It depends... A few of them already have a KHS-400C, but you probably got a KHS-400B-Version.
Well, you can do some stuff...

-cleaning all lenses and mirrors
-adjusting laser-power (or better said 'adjusting pots')
-...

...but this PS2-Version needs quality-media for sure and burned in the right way, with almost no errors and the DVD-dye must have a high reflectivity after burning (for example you should know that allready from Verbatim. Those are almost golden if your burner uses the correct laser-power and speed.).

Btw.: Sorry! Even thought it is 2PM here, I'm still not fully awake.
It's kind of hard to 'form' a sentence,...:yawn:

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OK...... so your saying i should just try verbatim disks and see whats what.

I already cleaned the laser with an alcohol wipe that i used to help fix busted 360s this also didnt help read.

So you consider anything below verbatim to be crappy media? because as far as i know cmc dye is not crappy.

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Originally Posted by eraldorh

OK...... so your saying i should just try verbatim disks and see whats what.

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Yepp, 'Verbatim' or 'TayoYuden' are my recommentations.

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I already cleaned the laser with an alcohol wipe that i used to help fix busted 360s this also didnt help read.

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Whooo,... Alcohol. Well,you know there are lenses which can get blurry, if you use the wrong alcohol (for example, if some plastics are included)?
'ISO-Propyl' should work well in most cases (just to point it out,... I don't think that this happened to you...).

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So you consider anything below verbatim to be crappy media? because as far as i know cmc dye is not crappy.

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Hell, even Sony-Media normally fall under the 'First-Class-Media-Category', but like I said before... Burning is a photo-chemical process and yes, the dye is still reacting AFTER the burning-process is finished...

Guess what? The After-reaction of those Sony-DVDs are so strong, that DVDs can be read in a PS2 directly after burning without any problems, but one or two hours later it isn't even recognized correctly anymore on the very same PS2.

To keep this after-reaction as short and low as possible, MitsubishiChemicalCorporation/Verbatim created a dye which includes 'metallic particles', a.k.a. also know as 'AZO'.

I never bought and never ever will buy DVDs, without AZO anymore...
My PS2 reads 5year old Verbatim and TayoYuden exactly as back then, when I burned them...


Verbatim and TayoYuden are the best for me, because of various reasons:

-the AZO-Technology is patented and only used by those two manufacturers afaik.
-the dye is really certified for 20xSpeed (mind you, CERTIFIED doesn't mean it can be burned from speed-x to speed-y or however a brand is labled... Most of those discs, which are for example labled with '4x-16x' are certified for the speed between those speeds and do not really even match the specs they propose [especially not on those discs, which stole the Disc-ID... and CMC is pretty common to be a stolen ID]).
-the shielding isn't perfect, but still quite good (I also 'washed' multiple Verbatim DVDs already and still no problems. :D). I would avoid those DVDs, which have a paper-label.
The glue on is might affect either the shielding/lacquer, or the dye if it reaches it...

What I mean by that? The dye reacts ultra-short after burning thanks to AZO and the dye-reaction is also more effective (but not due to AZO, but the other developments around writeable DVD), means it has the same reaction with less laser-power.

Edit: Edited this all a bit and added additional info...

Thanks for the reply, iv copyed the ripped iso from my game disk to my pc again and installed them on my external hd hopefully this will work and i have asked my friend who has verbatim dvd-r to send me some and ill see if they work.



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/25-VERBATIM-AZ...item4aaa84663d

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/25-VERBATIM-DV...item2303665a33


which of these two would be best for the ps2?

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Originally Posted by eraldorh

Thanks for the reply, iv copyed the ripped iso from my game disk to my pc again and installed them on my external hd hopefully this will work and i have asked my friend who has verbatim dvd-r to send me some and ill see if they work.



25 VERBATIM AZO DVD-R 16X 4.7GB SPINDLE 120MIN DVD | eBay UK

25 VERBATIM DVD+R DISCS 16X 4.7GB AZO 43500 120mins | eBay UK


which of these two would be best for the ps2?

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I would recommend the -R discs (your top link) rather than the +R ones.
The +R discs are probably good too, but why take the risk of having 'Booktype' issues...
(Those do not exist for DVD-R.)

I've used many hundreds (quite literally) of those DVD-R discs, and they have been excellent for all purposes.

Best regards: dlanor