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Ability to Install CFW and advice
Ability to Install CFW and advice –
I started a new thread since I didn't want to hijack someone elses.
I'm looking for advice on whether I can install CFW and jailbreak etc, I'm looking to be able to play games from aan external HDD and I am very new to this.
I have read the tutorials, guides etc but it all seems somewhat overwhelming so I thought I would just ask and hoe for some advice.
I have an old fat 60gb PS3 on firmware 4.46 and has never been JB or had cfw, I'm not sure but I would imagine this model is possible to install cfw on (and or JB if needed)
I can figure out what to do as long as I know what steps are needed as the guides around here are great.
My assumption is as follows.
I need to downgrade to 3.55 (Is this possible without an extra hardware chip? if not, what is the best method)
then upgrade to debug 4.46 REX (is this required and in doing this, do I need to spoof to 3.55 to be able to play games from the HDD?)
I have also read that before doing anything, I need to enable QA, but from what I have read, I can't do this without custom firmware installed.
All the guides I have read are for older firmwares and/or for people who already have cfw on 3.55 and wish to update to 4.46 and I have found nothing for pretty much retail state currently on 4.46.
Any advice and a process would be much appreciated.
first i recommend someone selling your fat console coz fat models have much higher fail rate so buy a slim model on 3.55 then u should able to intsall 4.46 rex directly from 3.55 ofw without qa jusrlt google how to access ps3 recovery menu
or if u incest on jb your current console find sime one who are willing to downgrade it for you may cost you ±50$
after your console has been downgraded commonly either kmeaw 3.55 or rogrero cfw will be installed if by then you on rogero cfw just update to rex directly but plz remove any disk inside your console and disconnect the internet then install the latest multiman 126.96.36.199 then u t ready to play keep in mind some games can be only be played internally and some externally and most require a ps3 disk inside so it can mount it on top of it
u can not sign in psn while your console on cfw uf u do you will get BANNED
Well there are reasons to ditch, your old PS3, and then there are reasons not to....
Assuming that your PS3 has survived this long... I don't think you need to ditch it as the last Poster had suggested.
But downgrading that particular PS3 will be more difficult because from the sounds of it. It'll likely be a NAND Chipped PS3.
CECH "A" ~ "G" All have 2x 128Mb NAND Chips inside them that have to be dumped and, repackaged into One Dump File.
Luckily there are plenty of Tools around to do this. But you are limited to just using a either a Teensy++ 2.0 to downgrade. Or a ProgSkeet to downgrade / Fast Boot Switching between CFW & OFW. With the addition of optional NAND Chips.
Either way you WILL have to solder something on the order of 50 Points on the PS3 + the Modchips is question.
CECH "H" ~ "Q" On the other hand all have a 1x 16Mb NOR Chips in them. While there's nothing to stop you from using either the ProgSkeet or the Teensy++ 2.0. You also have the option of using the E3 NOR Flasher. Which unlike the above is Solderless for the sake of downgrading, and only requires you to solder Three Points on the PS3 to enable Fast Boot Switching*.
CECH "20xx", "21xx" Draw less power, and also run cooler then the older Phats. They are all 1x 16Mb NOR Chip ONLY! So again while you could use a ProgSkeet or Teensy++ 2.0. You'd be better off with the E3 NOR Flasher.
CECH "25xx" should be avoided. Its not so much that you can't downgrade or install CFW on it. But, that its a kind of luck of the draw with such Models.
CECH "30xx" ARE NOT DOWNGRADABLE OR HACKABLE
CECH "40xx" ARE NOT DOWNGRADABLE OR HACKABLE
*Your Model may vary!
Thanks for the replies and the info, a lot more in depth than anticipated and its interesting to learn.
So to recap, my first step will be to either -
sell my current PS3 for a slim on 3.55, then upgrade to 4.46 REX with no need for QA
pay someone to downgrade to 3.55 for me
If I wish to do this myself, either way I will need to purchase a Modchip and depending on the internal chip version, soldering will be necessary, albeit easier IF I have the version with NOR chips.
Is the only reason to ever need a mod chip is if a downgrade is required?
I think what 6210classick was intimating was that since its no secret that the Phats draw more Power (i.e. Wattage) then say the Slim or by a greater magnitude the Super Slim's. You'd be less likely to run into the dreaded Yellow Light of Death (i.e. YLoD). Which may well be true enough. Assuming that you haven't kept, and are continuing to run your PS3 in a closed off & dusty environment. Thus causing the PS3 to choke on huge hairballs. (The horrors you see on YouTube!) Then you should be ok. With this noted exception I'd be hard pressed to want to give up a PS3 that had both the Cardreader & the PS2 EE-Chip. Besides it doesn't matter a pair of fetted Dingos Kidneys what kind of PS3 you have. IF YOU DO NOT BOTHER TO REPLACE THE THERMAL COMPOUND after removing the Heatsink / Fan. You'll have killed the PS3 in no time flat anyway. This alone would IMO almost guarantee a DYI approach. As not all of these Downgrade services will even bother to do that. So don't let the whole YLoD thing scare you off its a load of FUD!
Originally Posted by raiyani
You best answer is to turn your PS3 over and find the CECH Number... Given you have a presumably original 60Gb PS3 it'll likely either be an "A" or "C" Model FYI: "A" Has full PS2 Hardware.... The "C" only has Software Emulation*. Both Models are NAND, both Models also have 4x USB Ports and the Cardreader as well...
As for finding someone who will do downgrade on NAND Chipped PS3... Well good luck! I won't say that you can't find them. But, 99% of those in the "Game" only do NOR Chip PS3, via an E3 NOR Flasher, and want nothing to do with the older NAND Consoles. So you're gonna almost have to accept it as a DIY Project.
Oh yeah I almost forgot about my "*" there...
While its true on a flush level that only the Phats can do PS2 via Hardware (EE-Chip)... The Slims (20xx, 21xx & 25xx), are somewhat capable of this too! Its not as straight forward as chucking the Disk in mind. But, you can convert a good deal of PS2 Games into PS2 Classics which you can run on the newer PS3. The same holds true for most PSP Games too.
Again I'd like to point out that if you do decide to try and get a Slim (for NOR), try to make sure its either a 20xx or a 21xx (The "xx" is the Region Code "00" Jap, "01" US/CAN "04" EMEA etc... etc...). You can find 'em on fleabay for around $150.00(USD). Unless you're prepaird to put the time into it and wait for someone to "post" an OFW3.55. Its been known to happen! That $150.00(USD), will only net you a downgradable PS3 ONLY! Hacked PS3 @ or above 3.55 generally go for closer to $250.00(USD). But for that extra Cash you could net yourself an E3 and do it yourself. And possibly set yourself up a Fast Bootable PS3 that can run both CFW & OFW (i.e. PSN w/no B& Risk!)
Last edited by Ichijoe; 09-18-2013 at 10:54 AM.
Thanks for the confirmation Ichijoe,
Further to reading your comment about the PS2 backwards compatibility and 4 USB ports, I think I may have gotten it wrong, I'm now fairly sure have the 40gb version with 2 USB ports.
Sorry for the confusion guys.
I was reading so much about it last night and typed the post this morning. I did get it not long after they just stopped the 60gb with PS2 Hardware backwards compatibility.
Either way, I don't think it changes my situation much.
I'd just like to say thanks for all the info, it has given me a good idea of what is required and how to go about it.
Much appreciated guys!
When you get the chance to, flip your PS3 over and check your CECH Number. It will be on both the Spine Sticker (Under side of the PS3), or at the near end of your Serial Number (where ever that might be on the Phats). The chances of you having a NOR chipped PS3 have risen greatly by having only Two USB Ports... But the "G" Model which also only has 2x USB Ports, was the last PS3 to have NAND Flash.
Originally Posted by raiyani
Just outta my personal interest, did you buy this System new, or used?
'Cause if its an original 60Gb PS3, it can only be an "A" or "C" Model. The "G" though "Q" Models (disregarding Flash ROM), were never sold in 60Gb Kits. Those Systems only came in 40Gb or 80Gb Units. With the latter "P" and "Q" Models having 160Gb HDDs. So something seems a bit off here...
Again like I always l like to stress to those asking this line of Question....
Whats your CECH Number?
I have just checked and The model I have the CECH K03, 80GB.
I take it this is good news for me? Do I need to purchase any hardware for this or is the soldering purely on the already installed components? is soldering necessary at all
If I go ahead with this on my own, which downgrade tool would you recommend?
There seem to be lots of good guides around.
I bought the console new, many many moons ago and have only now considered modding and CFW.
And again, all advice is much appreciated.
As to your first question on Hardware, and do you need it... Unless you are on OR BELOW! OFW3.55... Then you'll always need some kind of Hardware, end of story!
Originally Posted by raiyani
The "K" Model is as you might have hereto guessed is a NOR Chipped PS3. So no you do not have to solder anything... Unless you actually want to that is. I mean to say that there is nothing to stop you from doing so. I think you may find the E3 NOR Flasher to be both simpler and easier to deal with though.
That this is a NOR Chipped PS3 you could in theory send it off somewhere to get modded by someone with an E3 NOR Flasher. But, I'd probably steer clear of these outfits myself. I'm not trying to diss anyone here specifically. I never used their "services" and have no opinion of them, One way or other. But, when you read Thread, after Thread about how such Systems just seem to die with in the year of having been modded. I find myself asking had those Operations even bothered to replace the Thermal Paste / Compound on both Chips? I've even read Threads on this Site from utter noobs that never bothered to replace this on there own Machines. IMHO this is the One of the most critical points in the whole process. And if you can afford to mod a $400.00(USD) PS3 with a $130.00(USD) E3 NOR Flasher. Then you should be able to afford a $5.00(USD) Tube of Arctic Silver too!
In any case everything you need to know can be found here: http://psx-scene.com/forums/f263/ult...98/#post988671 (The Ultimate Fool Proof Guide - PS3 Hardware Downgrading)
My advice is to read though the disassembly (Phat Model), then the "Downgrade with the E3" Sections:
Downloads (Not much you can do with that till you get a hold of an E3)
Attaching the NOR Clip
Creating your Dump
Verifying your Dump
Now IMHO this Howto is outta date and other Tools like the BwE NOR Validator can do the job of Byte reversing for you.
The other CRITICAL thing you have to to is to verify your "Dump" with your Eyes though HxD. Again I don't know which Firmware was used during the creation of that HOWTO, my OFW4.40 PS3 at the time was way out. I had problems with the "00" Statistics which were IIRC 18.23% and not the +18.24% that was expected. This IS A KNOWN bug / problem, and it can be ignored. Although this through some of the Address locations off all of the validation checkpoints were accurate with what they were supposed to be. Which is good. cause if this weren't the case. You'd have to redump your Firmware again. As flashing a borked Firmware back to the PS3 is the fastest way to kill it.
Assuming that the Dump was good and you have managed to patch and re-write your Firmware to the PS3.
You could then download any number of 3.55 Downgrade Firmwares to your PS3. *Note* that the the E3 only patches your PS3 it does not actually install any CFW itself! After which you'll need to dehash the PS3 with a clean 3.55 formware to dehash the syscon which would then be at 9.99 back to 3.55. In order to then be able to install a CFW4.46. So you can also ignore the part about the Factory Service Mode Jig as well...