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yeah.. our "test" at work is we lift the mobo by the soldered wire..
same technique for stripping and tinning the ends..
doesn't sound like a problem at all....
and what do you mean larger stranded? Does the 3 pack come in diff. gauges?
I'm gonna get you the model # of the temp. control iron. keep checking back.
I wouldn't like to use a rinky-dinky little radio shack iron. I'm used to the pro tools! My wire from Radio Shack came in seperate packages. They stock 3 colors, I just coincidentally buy all 3 at a time. Stranded wire means...its not one solid copper rod, its lots of tiny pieces of copper wire, twisted together inside to about a 24 guage? 22? I don't remember exactly.
i forgot to run my 3.3v connection at first with larger gauge wire and did it with wrapping wire. The chip booted, but when i was adding some finishing touches i went ahead and soldered another wire in paralell with it. As for the main ground, i used about 18-24 gauge
hmm... practicing on a vcr right now..
i have a tenma digital 21-1590 iron.
the tip is abit worn. filed it down a bit. i can hit lil resistors pretty good. not having too much luck w/ the ic chip. bought some dutch boy tinning flux and using .022 rosin core.
should flux go on the legs of the chip?
and what's the best way to hit holes?
oh and i bought two types of wire at radio shack.. 3 pack green, red b lack hook up wire 22 ggauge but it looks like one rod..
however this one big roll of 18 gauge i bought IS stranded.. use one strand for the IC legs?
hmm... nevermind.. how would you know which strand it was on the other end? contiuniuty test?
You misunderstood me. Don't use multi-conductor stranded wire. You want single-conductor. All the little wires touch each other.
You don't want solid 24 guage wire for the current-carrying wires (pwr & gnd) because charge flows along the outside edges of the conductor, not through the middle of it. Therefore, you get more surface area with lots of little tiny wires, and thus better current delivering capability. Same thing applies to car amplifiers
Yes put flux on all the legs near where you will solder to help avoid bridging. The bios leg points take the most skill and practice.
For "holes" if its what I think you mean...use a straight razor blade to scrape away the pcb coating over the points. Flux the point then tin it. Tinning the end of your wire also helps here, try to get a little glob on it, but don't strip/melt away too much insulation. Use a fine tip, watch your heat.
EDIT: that 22 guage solid core is going to be too big for all those small points. Use 28 or 30 guage
Last edited by nickbuhl; 10-14-2006 at 03:13 AM.
some reason it takes me too long to heat the wire hot enough to melt the solder touching it to tin it right.. (letting the heat do the work).
have it on 600
i also noticed it's not a good idea to bend even the back part of the wire once you soldered it.. premold it I guess.. but other then that.. what are some other tricks to making s ure they don't pop off and say lift off a resistor?
and what's the clear stuff called?
both those gauges seem too big for chip legs and the like.. RS didn't have the 30 gauge
sorry for multiple posts.. didn't know you posted.. and i'm live here.
radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062642&cp=2032058.2032227.203 2239&allCount=19&fbn=Cable+Type%2F30+gauge&f=PAD%2 FCable+Type%2F30+gauge&fbc=1&parentPage=family
is what you mean right
That link doesn't work. Bios legs: if you can bend your attached wire gently back and forth +/- 5 degrees you should see the bend is not occuring at the leg, but some distance away from it.