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Soldering resistors? –
Before the flames, I've been researching and reading for hours in preparation for my UPS shipment of my crystal chip. Also, I solder on a daily basis at work but to bigger points. Mostly the mobos from VCRs and TVs.
So, like I said, I've been doing research, looking at tutorials and videos of modded stuff (some of it not so readily findable). lots of good info and I feel confident I can do it after getting some practice it on something perishable. There's one thing I HAVEN"T seen though. I see diagrams that point to soldering to resistors. I've ran into this at work and it's SOOO easy to melt all the solder on one side of the resistor and the resistor ends up lifting with the iron.. The lil black rectangles everywhere with metal edges are resistors, right?
Did I run into some bad luck on a cheap VCR or what?
At work I've gotten to the point of being able to solder wire to IC legs after a few tries.
Also people seem to differ on the use of a brushline/fiberglass pen? Thoughts/comments?
i wish i had a flux pen when i did this, (just finished mine a couple hours ago) but instead i used a cutip and some paste flux and just wipped it all over anything i needed to solder to. I wouldn't have done the job without this.
As for the resistors, i just did a v7 gh-022 board for my first and it was pretty easy, 4 legs separated bya a leg each, 6 big solder points incliding ground (by big i mean pencil sized), 8 or so that were small flat and close to each other. Then there were the 2 resitor/ diode whatever they where.
The only advice i can offer for this is make sure you have a 15w or less iron and a super fine tip.
remember watts don't affect heat, but diffusion of heat, so a thirty watt iron will take the a resistor right off the board when you touch it and a 13 watt iron will let you hold the iron in it for a while before enough of the solder melts to pull it off.
I have a switchable to 15w radio shack iron and i went and bought the finest tip they had today and then filed it down to even finer and an even tighter angle of a tip. It's almost like the front of a metal mechanical pencil now. Then i tinned the exposed copper very good.
The only resitor that gave me trouble was the one in a funny location next to the main IC, i think it's the TX point or something. What i did is blobbed the solder on the end of the wire real good, ran the wire under the legs of the ic, bent the wire into an L shape that was kinda facing sidways and down, hooked around the side of the resistor i had to solder to, and gently applied pressure to it by pulling the wire from the other side of the IC where it was running out of the legs. Then i held the iron tip to the resistor for no longer than 2 missisipi's.
I accidentally broke the wire free of the resistor after i had succesfully soldered it on their twice because i didn't give it long enough to harden. Blow on it and let it cool for a good minute before you test the strength. If it comes loose go check your email and wait for the excess heat to dissapate before trying again. Remember if it only comes slightly loose and you want to break it off the rest of the way to try again to use the iron and not pull or you risk jerking the component off.
Could you elaborate on the Watt--> diffusion thing?
I can go buy a RS iron for sure.. but I have access to a professional soldering iron.. grounded AC with a temp. control...
Maybe I should start a new thread w/ that question.
Thx for your advice.
Also I forgot to ask...
I'm going to buy AWG wire today...
i've looked at pics and I've seen some pretty clean installs. Some look like they bought premade wire because the strands are "stuck" together in a straight line...
or are they just skilled and managed to get 15-16 strands of wire routed right next to each other..
those wire are usually glued into position with superglue(crazy glue),but some ppl use double sided tape also or small amounts of hotglue can be used.
If you use superglue remeber it can be a right pain to remove if you need to trouble shoot or re route wires
yeah, thats what i figured.. we use doublestick at work too when we work on TVs.
you know, i've been calling around for super fine kynar wire and soldering tips and not a single hobby shop in town carries them.. one carries 20 gauge..
radioshack has some generic magnetic wire package...
For the accessories I'd rather shop locally as opposed to doing it online....
any advice on the temp. controlled iron?
Radio Shack carries 30 guage "wrapping wire" for making your own coils. Personally I get 3 at a time in red, white and blue for that patriotic mod feeling I use two Hakko 936 irons with fine tips. (If you accidentally lift an smt part, use 2 irons to get it back on!) I find a larger tip works better for my braided pwr/gnd wires and the places they need to go. Always add some fresh solder to every point you'll hit. Use a flux pen on the bios legs before you tin them. It can be a bitch if you bridge those legs. You'll have to use braid, then you'll have to hit each leg/pad again, not just every other one for the chip. I don't bother with glueing the wires down, just make sure none of them run anywhere near a screwhole and its surrounding ground-pinch area.
watt diffusion things = http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&l...g+iron+wattage
Radio shack doesn't sell kynar wire by brand name, the mall had generic wrapping wire that would work fine, the larger shop here had blue white and red wrapping wire, that's what you want.
As for the tips, i don't know. every radio shack i've seen here had the 15w tip.
I also don't know anything about that soldering station you've got if it's just got heat and not wattage, i would play around with some resitors on something first to make sure that you've got the right temps.
Also, i started off trying to do a clean install, the wire is really nice and holds stiff when you bend it, but i didn't feeling like running out to walmart for DS tape and i figured no ones really gonna be looking at it. First install took me about 2.5 hours from start to finish (including reading and downloading + soldering and testing)
Yeah, i saw the 3 pack. the rep showed me it.. just looked generic and no real description. didn't know if it was good enough. some of the stuff i read says wires is real imporant..
Will that wire work for both data lines err.. fine points i guess.. and ground/power points?
i'm used to tinning and unsoldering them with braids w/out overheating the chip... I think I even left the iron on 700... device still worked after..
did smoke the first one i tried though.
sounds like with a bit of practice i'll have this down no problem. i've been doing alot of soldering lately in the field lately anyway.
crystal chip should be here tommorow I hope. been 3 days since it shipped.
When you strip that generic 30 guage (yes that will work fine) at the board ends, just take off the tiniest bit of insulation...just the tip. This is not so crucial on the chip ends. If in doubt about any of your connections on the bios legs or the board, give the wire a firm pull. Don't go all Incredible Hulk just pull firmly enough to know it won't come off.
Use larger stranded wire for power and ground. Use a larger tip and turn the heat up a little for these two connections.