SCPH 39001

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03-06-2011, 08:37 PM
Reaper_456

2 Attachment(s)

SCPH 39001

My first post, and I am asking for help.

I bought a replacement power ribbon cable because I broke my old one. The attached pics should indicate how trashed it is. It broke when I went to place it back into the power/eject button assembly by bending/pinching on itself.
Now I know the unit worked because I was using it to play Final Fantasy 9 before taking it apart to clean the unit. Now my question is since replacing the ribbon cable it still wont power on, I know the unit is getting power because when you flip the power switch you hear a sort of noise coming from the unit itself. So is there something else I should check for like; fuses or ICs. The unit is missing parts like the laser assembly because I took it out for replacement, could this hamper the unit from going to a standby power state?
03-08-2011, 01:34 AM
Sophm

I had weird problem kinda like that, I unplugged the ribbon cable and when I plugged it in it didn't power up so I unplugged and plug in again and it worked so maybe it got some dirt in the slot or something.
03-08-2011, 10:29 PM
alonehacker

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper_456

My first post, and I am asking for help.

I bought a replacement power ribbon cable because I broke my old one. The attached pics should indicate how trashed it is. It broke when I went to place it back into the power/eject button assembly by bending/pinching on itself.
Now I know the unit worked because I was using it to play Final Fantasy 9 before taking it apart to clean the unit. Now my question is since replacing the ribbon cable it still wont power on, I know the unit is getting power because when you flip the power switch you hear a sort of noise coming from the unit itself. So is there something else I should check for like; fuses or ICs. The unit is missing parts like the laser assembly because I took it out for replacement, could this hamper the unit from going to a standby power state?

Your attached pics are from the old connector right? From what I see in the picture, it didn't look like the connector was actually damaged. Did you check for continuity using a multimeter for each pin?

Also, how do you know the unit is getting power after replacing the ribbon cable? Is the power switch LED red after plugging it in?

Not having the laser assembly in there shouldn't be an issue and shouldn't prevent it from going into a power state.

Pin 4 out of the power supply connector should be +12V. This 12V should be powering your LED switch. Verify if the +12V is there.
03-09-2011, 01:58 PM
l_oliveira

Have PS1 checked on the mainboard and if it's blown proceed on the replacement. It's a 12V line on the reset button flat cable so be very careful with it to not short circuit and blow the inputs for reset and eject buttons on the System Controller chip. If you blow that up, will be a tricky repair.
03-09-2011, 02:33 PM
Reaper_456

@ alonehacker

I know the unit is getting power because when I flip the switch the PS2 makes a sort of buzzing noise for a split second. It sounds kind of like a vverreep noise, its the same sound my PSU makes in my computer after I plug it back in and flip the power switch in the back.

The first attached picture is the part of the cable that ended up pinching on itself, it's the side that goes into the mainboard, that's where it pinched and folded on its self. I mistyped when I first posted. I said "power/eject button assembly" when I meant to say the mainboard, I wasnt thinking clearly that day.

But I'll be sure to test the pins on the cable.

@ l oliveira

Duly noted, I'll be extra carful not to damage that.

Thank you all for your replies!
03-09-2011, 02:50 PM
Reaper_456

I just tested the pins on the cable and they all give a reading as 001 when my Cen-tech digital multimeter is set to continuity. So if I am reading E-hows instructions correctly my old cable is fine. So I bought a spare cable, well 3 bucks isn't going to break the bank.

So now what else can I test.
03-09-2011, 10:58 PM
alonehacker

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper_456

I just tested the pins on the cable and they all give a reading as 001 when my Cen-tech digital multimeter is set to continuity. So if I am reading E-hows instructions correctly my old cable is fine. So I bought a spare cable, well 3 bucks isn't going to break the bank.

So now what else can I test.

I'm not sure what "PS1" l_oliveira was referring to, but I'm assuming he meant check fuse PS001, which I'm not sure would be too relevant here...but I guess check it anyway.

Did you verify +12V out of your power supply cable? It's either pins 3 or 4; they're both tied together. Use pin 2 or 1 as a GND reference.

You can also try plugging in the ribbon cable into your board and measuring pin 1. Pin 1 should also give you +12V as well. Use Pin 4 on the ribbon cable as a GND reference.

Let us know if you need more help!
03-12-2011, 04:08 PM
Reaper_456

The power supply is sending out a 12v. The cable while plugged into the board does not, it hits 003v. Wheres the PS001 fuse?

What other places can I check?
03-22-2011, 12:42 AM
l_oliveira

Quote:

Originally Posted by alonehacker

I'm not sure what "PS1" l_oliveira was referring to, but I'm assuming he meant check fuse PS001, which I'm not sure would be too relevant here...but I guess check it anyway.

Yeah ... Not relevant at all... PS1 is the fuse for the "System Controller" power supply.
Yes, not relevant at all... :chinscrat

(System controller is the chip that controls power up/temperature monitoring and "tada" the power and eject buttons)

PS1 should be around the center of the board in the side the power supply attaches to. And if I am not mistaken it's close to an HUGE standard fuse.

No PS1=no standby voltage supply, no syscon, no leds, no buttons, no power up. :dance: