PS2 v7 Questions (HDD Issue in 1st PS2 & DRE in 2nd PS2)

[ps2dragon]

I need someone's help or advice on this.
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FIRST PS2 (GH-022)
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I have a version 7 PS2 (motherboard is GH-022) that no longer detects my 300GB IDE HDD. What happened is my 300GB HDD got fried when connecting it to a my external USB HDD enclosure. This was the day after the power went out in our building, and the USB enclosure was not connected to a power surge protector bar at the time. So I'm guessing this is why the HDD got fried. I didn't know if it was the HDD or my enclosure at the time. With ignorance, I connected this HDD to my PS2, and now this PS2 will not detect any HDD I try in either uLaunchELF's HDD Manager or HDLoader. This happened 1 day after the power outage, so I was surprised the surge could still be present after all that time.

I already tried two other HDDs, a 20 GB that shows up in WinHIIP on my PC fine, and a 4GB that I never touched in a while, but has worked in my PS2 before. I also tried a second Network Adapter I purchased from the store, still no drives are being detected, so it has to be the PS2 hardware. I've already eliminated all parts, other then the motherboard itself, because I swapped the motherboard out and put it into another v7 (motherboard GH-019) I bought a few days ago for parts, and still can't detect any HDDs.

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SECOND PS2 (GH-019)
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The problem with the second PS2 is it gives a DRE on every type of disc (Movie DVD/PS1 Disc/PS2 CD - all originals). I tried swapping the CDVD drive with another one, that works fine in the first PS2 (GH-022), and still getting DRE on all discs. So there has to be something on it's motherboard causing this.

QUESTIONS:

1. I know I need a multimeter to test the fuses, but I'm not sure which one I need to fully test both PS2s. GTZ has already recommended that I can get a cheap one just for fuse testing, but I'm thinking I might need something more for testing other things like resisters, etc? Since I'm not sure what is wrong on the motherboards.
2. Does anyone have any insight into what the problem could be in either situation?

RE-EDIT: Ok, turns out I do indeed have a version 7 (GH-022) since the BIOS chip doesn't have 090 written anywhere on it.

[FahadSaid]

1)

Go to Canadian Tire, it's on sale for about $11 + Tax. Cedarbrae Canadian Tire has it guaranteed

Multimeter Link

2)

First PS2: Check fuses all around. Try the hard drive in a PC by IDE.

Second PS2: Did you try Lenschanger? The two motherboards might have had different lasers, so they have different EEPROM data. Connect the DVD drive to the 2nd PS2 and run Lenschanger (forget the latest version) (DEV1?).

[ps2dragon]

1) Go to Canadian Tire, it's on sale for about $11 + Tax. Cedarbrae Canadian Tire has it guaranteed Multimeter Link

Ok, I'll look into picking that up tomorrow.

2) First PS2: Check fuses all around. Try the hard drive in a PC by IDE.

I already tried connecting it as the slave drive in my PC and it shows up in WinHIIP fine (all games are listed and no errors when scanning). Also, when connecting to my PS2, I always check to make sure it's set to master not slave if it was ever set as slave previously.

Second PS2: Did you try Lenschanger? The two motherboards might have had different lasers, so they have different EEPROM data. Connect the DVD drive to the 2nd PS2 and run Lenschanger (forget the latest version) (DEV1?).

No I haven't tried Lenschanger, I thought it was only necessary if you were replacing the laser, not the entire CDVD drive itself. I have version 1.0 (beta 6) in ELF format, so I'll be using running it from the MC. I'll try it out soon and post the results, thanks.

[ps2dragon]

I picked up the Mastercraft Mini Analogue Multimeter from Canadian Tire for $4.99. After testing all the fuses on my GH-022 board (v8_gh-022_fuses.jpg). I found there is no continuity in the fuse PS10 (12v supply for HDD). According to the diagram, this fuse is 2 Amps. Is there any other specifications about this fuse I should know about when buying one? Can one be bought from a local store? I could take it from my GH-019 board, but don't want to ruin this board, because it seems to be fine.

[FahadSaid]

It should be fine as long as it's the same rating. Try to get a fast blow fuse if possible, it's better. Otherwise, just get a normal fuse.

Edit: Here's a link for an equivalent (Link)

[ps2dragon]

It should be fine as long as it's the same rating. Try to get a fast blow fuse if possible, it's better. Otherwise, just get a normal fuse.

Edit: Here's a link for an equivalent (Link)

This is awesome, have you tried to use this type of fuse to replace a PS10 fuse before?

Just curious, but how did you know what speed the fuse should be?

Also, does it matter what the Voltage Rating (V), Nominal Cold Resistance (Ohms), Norminal Melting I2t (A² Sec), or Interrupt Ratings (IR) is? I would like to get one that matches the PS10 fuse as much as possible, so it doesn't act up somewhere in the distant future. I also read something about self-healing fuses, would this type be better? If not, I guess I can always just buy another 2A fuse to replace if it dies again.

I did some searching on fuses and found this site. It lets search for specific fuse types. The closest I could find to the PS10 2A (self mounting fuse?) is this one. Just some extra information, nothing more.

[FahadSaid]

I used it to replace a PS9 fuse and it worked fine, only blew after overpowered. Fast blow is better because it gives less time for the overcurrent to cause any damage. Here's an example:

Slow blow: Takes probably 2 seconds to blow, and in that 2 seconds, the part could already be fried.

Fast blow: Almost instantly blown, less time to cause damage.

Voltage rating: Maximum voltage the fuse is effective in preventing overcurrent. (ex. 250v can be used safely in 120v circuit, but 120v fuse in 250v circuit doesn't work)

Nominal Cold Resistance: The resistance of the fuse when cold (typically 0 ohms).

Interrupt Rating: Amps the fuse can safely interrupt.

I2T: How fast the internal fuse part can burn up. Fast blow take less time and slow blow more.

Voltage rating shouldn't be considered as much, the circuit is only 12v. Same for Nominal Cold Resistance. Interrupt rating is kinda important, but for this circuit, it won't make a difference because it can handle about double the Amp rating. I2T is important, that's what makes a fuse slow blow or fast blow.

Just go with the link I gave you. It suits every purpose that's needed for the PS2.

[ps2dragon]

@FahadSaid: Thanks so much for the info. I'm surprised you actually answered all my questions.

Last Question: Does it matter what type of wire I use to solder the fuse to the PS2? I'm asking because on this site it specifies different wire types. I'm guessing a regular silver wire over copper wire?

[FahadSaid]

You should use thicker wire, mabye around 22 AWG. Just solder to the two sides of the blown fuse and you're fine. Remember, only use one of the fuses in the two pack.

[ps2dragon]

You should use thicker wire, mabye around 22 AWG. Just solder to the two sides of the blown fuse and you're fine. Remember, only use one of the fuses in the two pack.

I believe I found everything at The Source, except the wire. Does all this look ok, and also where can I get the 22 AWG wire?

WHAT I THINK I NEED:

• Soldering Iron Power Rating: 325-350 degrees C or or a 15-17 watt plug in iron
• Soldering Iron Tip: 0.031 inches (0.8 mm)
• Solder: 0.031 inches (0.8 mm)

WHAT I'VE DECIDED ON PURCHASING (links to items):

• Silver Solder (0.022")
• Nexxtech™ 60W Soldering Iron with Variable Wattage - not sure of tip size.
• 5mm x 20mm Fast Acting Glass Fuses - Thanks for the info!