I saw a tutorial on how to configure the AWS in Imgburn, and basically you have a profile you can configure for each media + burner, or media only etc, and you have to insert a writing speed. How can I know what should be the best one? If you're choosing a speed, is it going to perfom the way you said? Is it the writing speed limit?
Set imgburn to speed "1".
The rest depends of the media, the burner and the way you connect the burner to your pc/laptop.
Imgburn will inform the real speed when burning.
The way i do it: Verbatim 16-r, samsung EXTERNAL dvr-rw DL(usb 0,5A), IMGBURN at 1x.
It burns at 3.3x BECAUSE OF THE RESULTS of that factors.
That dvd backup looks as an ORIGINAL, no problem at all.
BUT... your original problem is the lens, its low quality.
Buy an 400c and replace that unit, test the pots and the bobines before.
Never under 900 ohms for a new unit laser(dvd frecuency), and bobines always above 6 ohms(more its better, mine has 12 and reads perfect)
Test the bobines of your old unit now and youll find they are low, no matter how much you enpowered the laser, bobines never will locate the laser properly on media because they are weak.That is common after some years and in bad quality readers.
Another problem is to CALIBRATE the unit after install.
A good lens could die soon if it isnt calibrated fine.
You could try this whit your 400Q if bobines are right.
Sorry for my english, i hope you understand.
Sure! Thanks for all the info! Although my laser must not be of the best quality, it still reads some games, the ones better burned. And the last "wave" of games I was complaining about were all crappy copies, because I tried on a PS2 Slim with a good working lasers and the majority didn't even work or were really hard to read by the PS2. (and I also checked some of those with dvdinfopro, and the result was pretty bad)
Anyway, how can I check the bobines? Where are they located on the PS2? Please remember I have a fat PS2 (v4).
Youll see two points each side, measure both to the left(tracking) and both to the right(focus).
Post dvd frecuency pot value.
OR DO THIS TO CHECK BOBINES:
BURN A GOOD COPY OF GTA SA AND RUN IT...
Watch and listen the presentation, if you see any jump, tracking bobine is low, no remedy.
If you try any "short" dvd backup youll see the reading is good or better(bobines arent working hard to reach the media edge)
will try and measure those points!
I already posted the values of my pots, but I'm not sure of which one corresponds to DVD media: "i checked the pots and they're around ~750 and ~835 ohms"
GTA SA is small sized? I remember I used the game Top Spin, which also has intros (and used to stutter and jump), to calibrate the white weel and the screw on the lens arm. Right now it's in a position that doesn't show any problems reading that game.
GTA SA is full sized, and perfect to test tracking bobine.
If its running good, no problem, your lens is still working well, just use perfect clean dvds.
If GTA runs well :
To test the perfect calibrate, burn a copy of GOW2(DL) and runnit at icaro screen(thats the beginning of second layer) and watch the automatic scene.
If you see big jumps or freezing, calibrate again.
To do it, check that chassis lens is "horizontal"parallel to the plastic lines surrounding.
Ussually the hole in the wheel is visible close to the metallic theeth holder.Keep it in that visible area.
Then go to the black screw on the lens arm and turn it clockwise till the end and go back a quarter, that is the starting point.Mark it to see what you do.
Go anti clock slowly,a quarter, no more, checking every time whit GOW2, it could take some hours, but if you catch the trick, you only can be a better calibrator.
After check the screw and no working, move the wheel 2 or 3 teeth and start with screw again.
The idea is reduce the jumping in icaro scene(a copy always jumps a bit) and see the falling inmediatelly, if not, try again.
UF... Im tired...english is no my....argghhh
Don't worry about your english! thank you!
I think the calibration isn't currently a problem in my ps2, because the games burned well work pretty flawlessly. The problem is mostly in the media/burns, but anyway, I'll try to achieve better results messing around with everything I can. I'm going home today, and will be able to check the bobines etc.
Youll never know about the calibration till you do wath i say at least.
Ther are no instrument to measure it, but i found that way, easy, clean and cheap, and you only need patient.
Im an expert in calibrating every fat model lens, if they are still alive, i ll do them work, for sure.
I think im am the only one in my country enjoying to work on fat models.
HD7 is the most difficult to calibrate.
I wait for the bobines values you find...but at this time i think the whole lens is the problem, low tracking bobine and low laser...:chinscrat
Its time to make a change(?)
Thanks for your help! I'm getting a PS2 Slim to play dvds/cds whenever I want, because I'm tired of spending money with that god'damn console... I've changed the lens once, and barely used it, so won't be changing no more, unless I can do something by my own to increase the reading quality.
I measured the bobines and they're both around 6 ohms. How can I increase those values?
Anyway, I burned a copy of PES2011 patched for DVDV to use with ESR etc, and analysed it in dvdinfopro, and the PI errors average is around 800/900 (when it's supposed to be around 50), so I guess one of the problems here is the burner. Going to try another copy with the other burned I ordered recently, a Samsung SH-222A and see how it goes.
burned a copy of a singstar game with the new burner and definetely less errors, and the game runs well!
Nothing to do to change bobines values, but is not so bad, if you put laser values at 700(both) and calibrate again, possibly get a result.
If you are looking for an slim model, avoid he 90`s because it doesnt run FMCBOOT(needs a dev1 modchip).
You have info enought to do what you need to help your fat work.
I think is better to change that lens, just get a 400c.