Problem After Problem

Printable View

04-06-2009, 03:32 AM
blazerqb14

Problem After Problem

PS2 Version: 9
Mod Chip: Apple 75k

My older brother and I are attempting to mod my younger brother's ps2. After (I think) overcoming some oddities in the diagram(RE connecting to RST, and S to SX caused some confusion), the ps2 would boot up with video and audio, the disk tray would open, but it would not close or read a disk after I put one in and closed it manually. After fiddling around with the drive to no avail, I did some research and I came across this fix for the problem. I then rechecked my Z point solder and it was not connecting, so I re-soldered it and sure enough it solved the ejecting problem. For a grand total of 5 seconds that is. I popped a disk in and it not only would it not read the disk, but the tray would no longer eject at all. I opened it up and took the disk out of the DVD drive and then the video and audio stopped working. I checked everything out after that and put it back together and the reset button had stopped working. It has been a fun few days. So I checked the fuses next and I found that all of them have no resistance except ps11 which varies from no continuity to random periods of about 800 ohms, so I assume it is blown. Can anyone confirm this for me, and can that cause this problem? How exactly do I go about replacing the fuse?
09-25-2009, 12:11 PM
Ruddicz

short it with a piece of wire. if the PS2 works then its the fuse. power off after test as if theres more problems you just fried the circuitry that fuse was protecting.

to replace you can order one in smt style, or quicker and likely cheaper you can solder long wires to its equivalent value glass one and put it somewhere theres space.
09-25-2009, 04:16 PM
dlanor

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazerqb14

So I checked the fuses next and I found that all of them have no resistance except ps11 which varies from no continuity to random periods of about 800 ohms, so I assume it is blown.

Any kind of fuse that shows a resistance of 800 ohms or more is definitely blown.

The resistance you see is obviously not that of the fuse, but of the circuitry it is connected to at each end. And the reason why you get differing results is partly because of the polarity of your measuring current (switch DMM probes around, and you probably get a different reading), and partly because of the current 'charge' state of semiconductors between the two probe points.

Just make sure that you have correctly identified the component, so that it really is a fuse. Surface mounted components often look alike regardless of their nature, and a capacitor can give the same reading to an ohm-meter as a blown fuse will do.

Quote:

Can anyone confirm this for me, and can that cause this problem? How exactly do I go about replacing the fuse?

I'm not familiar with that particular component, but all PCB work in a modern console requires great care and good tools, including a fine-point soldering iron as well as desoldering equipment. And most important of all, a sharp eye and a steady hand.

Best regards: dlanor