Trouble with my magic 2 chip?

shadowdweller · 08-15-2002,03:16 PM

I just read earlier on this forum that there is a flaw in the magic 2 chip. I installed my chip just now and it boots up psx games fine but it will not boot up any ps2 games, original or backups. What is supposed to happen if the chip is flawed? My ps2 is 39001 date code 2B. Anyone have any ideas?

shadowdweller · 08-15-2002,06:14 PM

to all who read this and are having the same problems, I solved my own problem. What I did was I used an alternate point for the 3.3V. Instead of using the via, I used the capacitor that is right above it. Problem solved. Also, if any of you are having this problem make sure you do not have any dry connections especially for the 5V and the 3.3V points.

charlie_ps2 · 08-15-2002,06:25 PM

Shadowdweller - there's things we need to know now:

Is the Magic 2 chip the one with the undeline on the word V7?
Is the Z point attached?
Were any of the region bridges strapped on the Magic 2 itself or was it US configured?
What wire did you use for the 3.3v, GND, 5v?
Specifically, do PS1 backups load/play?
Please confirm that PS2 originals and backups now play?
Do you have GS2 and can you boot anything with it (like a backup)?
From whom did you order the Magic 2 and when?

Thanks - your answers will be of greatest interest if you have a V7 underlined magic 2.

shadowdweller · 08-15-2002,07:10 PM

The magic 2 chip I bought from Lik-Sang 2 weeks ago does not have the underlined V7. It has the V7 sticker on the pcb but it is not underlined. The Z point is attached to the right above the reset point it is a circle. The chip has the region bridges on it but I am from the US so I didn't have to use the bridges. I used 30 gauge kynar wire that I bought from Radio Shack. PS1 games load up perfectly if they are burned onto high quality cdr media such as Sony, and TDK. I talked to other people who have the version 7 chip and ps2 and they said that their cheap media worked perfectly but mine doesn't. PS2 originals and backup's work perfectly. PS2 backups work best on high quality media suck as Apple, Verbatim, TDK. I don't have a GS to test out the Z point. If you have anymore questions let me know

charlie_ps2 · 08-15-2002,07:41 PM

Thanks - as it's not the underline I gues you are lucky!

But when you get a chance, I would switch the 30 awg wire on 3.3/5/GND to 22 or 24 awg. GND especially carries a lot of current - in fact the whole load. That may otherwise come back to haunt you.

shadowdweller · 08-15-2002,07:54 PM

I was thinking about changing the wire for those three points anyways, but I just wanted to see if the chip worked. Do you think the 30 guage wire will short soon enough?

charlie_ps2 · 08-15-2002,07:58 PM

Dunno - I didn't do the calculations but it will sure get hot. You obviously didn't read my PS2 Soldering Tips nor my Install Guide! Anyway, glad it's basically working.

shadowdweller · 08-15-2002,08:05 PM

why what are the problems other people are having? What are the differences between the v7 chips? I mean what's the difference with the underlined version and the non-underlined version? I will read the forums now

cityhunter · 08-15-2002,11:49 PM

Alright.. I got the same setup (V7 no underline, PS2 39001, Lik-sang, received 2 weeks ago). But I'm seeing some peculiar behaviors. I have to start the system with a PS1 boot style power-on (hold 2 seconds), otherwise the CD tray cannot close. Once I get the tray closed, I have to power off, then power on with single tap to play PS2 backups.

Tomorrow I'll try changing the 3.3V location, I had a bad feeling about the VIA - I poked the 24awg wire through and soldered it on the other side.

Any suggestions before I change the 3.3V location? Perhaps it's some other wire?

shadowdweller · 08-16-2002,02:21 AM

the only suggestion about the tray not closing is try to loosen the screws that are holding the metal plate down. When I first installed the chip I thought that I broke the dvd drive because the tray wasn't closing, so what I did was I removed the screws from the plate that is right on top of the board. Try that. If you want an alternate point for the 3.3V point, you can connect it to the left side of the little brown capacitor RIGHT above it. That will work. Yes, you should definitely change the point of your 3.3V it didn't sound like a good idea what you did

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