Scph 39008 Test Results

[ITMASTER]

what is the ice0.8?
could you explain me?

[Snoopy007]

lacyg

for bios u really have to mention both the d and b part.

ie like the 39008 above is a
d 090
b 090

so which 090 bios did u do the test on?

[ITMASTER]

This whole thing below

D552 090 048
B 20090 238 5BA4

only from one bios, there is only one bios no any others.

[ITMASTER]

TO lacyg

please write me by e-mail whats the problem and main solutions that exist now.
here is my e mail mmatrix0@lycos.com

thanks in advance

[nightmare]

Originally posted by Morning Call
herm

the pic on the main page loooks like hes using magnet wire

solder job isss badddd

would be interesting to see yours buddy

[amptor]

Originally posted by Morning Call
herm

the pic on the main page loooks like hes using magnet wire

solder job isss badddd

Yeah it does appear to be coated though. Solder job looks allright. But I've noticed a lot of folks on these boards don't know very much about electronics. I have taken some classes on it and can't claim to know a whole lot either. But I know a little more than some people I've seen posting.

The funniest thing I've seen lately is "if you're having problems with magic 3 installation, try adding more wires to ground". That is the stupidest thing I've seen so far haha it made me laugh. One wire is enough. Only reason to add more is if one breaks off I'd guess hahah and some of the people modding might want to because they don't get proper flow on some points.

Also needing to use thicker guage wire for +5V and GND is ok. I mean it works. But it isn't necessary. I had a guy telling me 1/2 of an amp goes through there and I looked up the rating for 30awg nickel plated copper wire (which is what Radio Shack sells) and it is rated to 2 AMPS. So why need to use 22awg there? My magic2 install has worked fine ever since the day I put it in.

Oh also last thing I'll point out.. Wire length. I mean, you're going only less than 1 foot and got people saying "make sure your wires are no longer than 2" for gnd and +3V and +5V". What a crock. I know that these "pro installers" do this, but come on. Some of this is going a bit too far. Someone needs to read an electronics book. Or at least look at the circuit and think for a minute. I do the installs now with 22awg on +5V and GND any more just so nobody will have anything to complain about. Also I make those wires less than 1". But realistically there's really no need. I just do it so if someone cracks the system open after some time, they won't be able to blame me for not doing those things that have been posted all over the net. You should be able to go well over a foot in wire length with 30awg wire to do the connections. No big deal. I think people just blame bad installations on things other than their bad solder connections haha.

But yeah I wouldn't use that kind of wire that's on the main page. I don't really trust the coating so much. But then again, it's probably harder to break that coating than the stuff on this radio shack wire. Next time I buy wire, I'm buying my 30awg wire wrapping from Fry's Electronics. Their coating looks stronger than the cheap crap radio shack sells.

[charlie_ps2]

Originally posted by amptor
Yeah it does appear to be coated though. Solder job looks allright. But I've noticed a lot of folks on these boards don't know very much about electronics. I have taken some classes on it and can't claim to know a whole lot either. But I know a little more than some people I've seen posting.

The funniest thing I've seen lately is "if you're having problems with magic 3 installation, try adding more wires to ground". That is the stupidest thing I've seen so far haha it made me laugh. One wire is enough. Only reason to add more is if one breaks off I'd guess hahah and some of the people modding might want to because they don't get proper flow on some points.

Also needing to use thicker guage wire for +5V and GND is ok. I mean it works. But it isn't necessary. I had a guy telling me 1/2 of an amp goes through there and I looked up the rating for 30awg nickel plated copper wire (which is what Radio Shack sells) and it is rated to 2 AMPS. So why need to use 22awg there? My magic2 install has worked fine ever since the day I put it in.

Oh also last thing I'll point out.. Wire length. I mean, you're going only less than 1 foot and got people saying "make sure your wires are no longer than 2" for gnd and +3V and +5V". What a crock. I know that these "pro installers" do this, but come on. Some of this is going a bit too far. Someone needs to read an electronics book. Or at least look at the circuit and think for a minute. I do the installs now with 22awg on +5V and GND any more just so nobody will have anything to complain about. Also I make those wires less than 1". But realistically there's really no need. I just do it so if someone cracks the system open after some time, they won't be able to blame me for not doing those things that have been posted all over the net. You should be able to go well over a foot in wire length with 30awg wire to do the connections. No big deal. I think people just blame bad installations on things other than their bad solder connections haha.

But yeah I wouldn't use that kind of wire that's on the main page. I don't really trust the coating so much. But then again, it's probably harder to break that coating than the stuff on this radio shack wire. Next time I buy wire, I'm buying my 30awg wire wrapping from Fry's Electronics. Their coating looks stronger than the cheap crap radio shack sells.

There spoke Mr. A Little Knowledge is Dangerous (although he does use 22 awg for power/GND if only to keep people off his back!)

On the wire thickness, we are in the realms of ampere rating over a given length. So if there's not much wire length the characteristics change. It has been proven time and again that heavier gauge sorts out many problems.

These problems are also associated with what goes on in a 40MHz/50MHz clocked environment; inductance, conductance and do on.

On the coated wire. If it's Enamelled Copper Wire then that's the best stuff to use. It works better at 32 awg and takes up less space. The pros would use that.

So while Amptor is right about a lot of people who try this for themselves, it preccisely to them that the specific advice on wires is given in order to avoid the well known catalogue of problems. That is also why we tell people to keep the wires short. Sure thay can be longer but with care not to cross sensisitve components. Pros know this, homebrewers don't.

[876]

i have info about Messia 2 working good on 39008

[amptor]

Originally posted by charlie_ps2
There spoke Mr. A Little Knowledge is Dangerous (although he does use 22 awg for power/GND if only to keep people off his back!)

On the wire thickness, we are in the realms of ampere rating over a given length. So if there's not much wire length the characteristics change. It has been proven time and again that heavier gauge sorts out many problems.

These problems are also associated with what goes on in a 40MHz/50MHz clocked environment; inductance, conductance and do on.

On the coated wire. If it's Enamelled Copper Wire then that's the best stuff to use. It works better at 32 awg and takes up less space. The pros would use that.

So while Amptor is right about a lot of people who try this for themselves, it preccisely to them that the specific advice on wires is given in order to avoid the well known catalogue of problems. That is also why we tell people to keep the wires short. Sure thay can be longer but with care not to cross sensisitve components. Pros know this, homebrewers don't.

One of the most common problems I've seen with people using long wires (and mounting the chip along side of the steel chassis as well) is that they often short out the wires by the chassis rubbing them to the pcb. So this may be where people came up with the idea to use shorter wires for the power, so that'd force people to mount the chip right onto the main board. Although, I'm not sure how they'd do it with the original diagrams. I used the alternate points diagram which is a pain to try to find any more. I dunno where I got it from. But that puts the chip on a bare area of the board underneath. I have seen a guy put the chip there before with the original points. This would work too, but then you could see where he used longer pieces of heavy guage wire for GND and voltage hehe.

[charlie_ps2]

Originally posted by amptor
One of the most common problems I've seen with people using long wires (and mounting the chip along side of the steel chassis as well) is that they often short out the wires by the chassis rubbing them to the pcb. So this may be where people came up with the idea to use shorter wires for the power, so that'd force people to mount the chip right onto the main board. Although, I'm not sure how they'd do it with the original diagrams. I used the alternate points diagram which is a pain to try to find any more. I dunno where I got it from. But that puts the chip on a bare area of the board underneath. I have seen a guy put the chip there before with the original points. This would work too, but then you could see where he used longer pieces of heavy guage wire for GND and voltage hehe.

What a load of rubbish.

The PS2 whizzes around at very high frequencies; there are fields and wires and direct current. Go figure.