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Help on bridged pins in Bios
Help on bridged pins in Bios –
Need some help. I just installed a Magic 3.1+ . When trying to solder pin #6 on bios (I think it is " N " in diagrams) this pin and the adjacent #7 bridged with solder. I tried to remove solder (with a needle and then a cutter) and separated them. Even thought the polimeter is reading zero resistance like if pins were conected somewhere. Before I really destroy the chip could someone help by clarifying if this two pins are conected and I should stop trying to widen the cut.
Symphtons of the problems after installing the chip is that PS2 open the tray and responder to eject and reset but read nothing. No logo appears in any mode. Just blank screen. First time I holded the reset buton for the specified 4 or 5 seconds, the console emits a continous beep until reset again. Then no sound in sucesived tries.
Any help would be very apprecited,
Best thing to do is get some flux and desoldering braid to remove it. If it's a blank screen then most likely there is a bridge.
Thanks for your suggestion and for confirming it is probably a Bios bridge thing. I would hate doing the desoldering. I am afraid of causing more damage than solving. I have to recognize my limitations. Soldering is tough enough. But I would try as a last resort. I am pretty confortable about the first 2 conections (pins #2 and #4) and the last one (#8). Pins #6  were bridged but I and can swear that the look now phisically separated. Could these two pins get conected thru a trace under the bios chip??.
If i put flux a apply heat would the solder separated easily. When touching the pins with my 30w iron for more than 3 seconds I start panic.
I anyone could confirm that none of these pins should be conected would help me as well.
If no other recomendation I, reluctantly, try desoldering.
Thanks for your help areofx.
It's very possible that there's a bridge that you can't spot; I've had it happen a few times and it's an utter bitch to fix. Get a razor blade and make sure none of the pins are connected, then go through the area with a desoldering braid. It'll get the solder out eventually, but like you said, don't leave the iron there for too long.
Oh and by the way, CD/DVD controller chip bridges can also cause black screens (this is the big chip on the motherboard, not the gray one).
the pins shouldnt be connected.. ur gonna need a good light source & good magnification possibly; chances are the bridge are not at the face of the leg but at the back where you can't see.. as aerofx says use flux & desoldering braid.. a nice thin desoldering braid is great for stickining in between the legs.. u dont have to leave the iron on the leg for three seconds.. ur 30w iron as long as the tip is decent will only need a quick short stab of most cases under 2 seconds to remove any solder.. just have patience its gonna take quite a few goes to get it out if you're not experienced. use a pin in between desolders just to make sure the solder hasnt crumbled; i use a cermaic picking tool which works great for scraping vias/lifting pins/debridging legs
I was in the same situation before, argos. I tried repairing one of my buddy's botched installs and I used an exacto knife to scrape off the bridge until it wasn't visibe but still had the black screen. Later I went out and bought a multi-meter, checked it and it was definately bridged... might've been really small but I took some flux, dipped the desoldering braid into it and layed it against the pins and heated it. The solder was sucked right up and all was well again.
Well braids usually sucks so this is how i do it. Put the soldering iron between the two pins that is bridge and use your old fashion can-o-air and blast it, sure to un brdige it but u might just want to put the iron on each eg just incase some get stuck in between. If there is a ball of soder close to it and u heat the leg it just get sucked into the eg anyways.
Always worked for me and the fastest way i use to under solder between two legs.
Well guys. Your advices were really helpfull. I aplied not just the iron but patience. I did the visible part mechanically (pin) but had to do some desoldering too since the polimeter was reading ¨bridged¨ for 4 o 5 tries. A 10 minutes job that feels like 1 hour excavating a trench.
The good part was that once these two pins were unbridged the rest worked just perfect. Reading, learning and sharing. That is the wonder. Thanks you guys for taking the time to share your experiencies.
I´ll be around if i can be of any help,
thats proly the worst thing u can do
Originally Posted by v333376
u could end up bridging more pins behind the thing making troubleshooting 10x harder
desolder is ur best bet.. solder suckers arent good for this type of desoldering...
braid works best
That is why i said to heat up the legs after just incase you get some behind the legs when you heat it up anything behind will got to the leg and no bridging.
I just saying he can try it if he want, it worked for me and never gave me a problem.