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busted V7 –
11-01-2002,07:10 PM
I have in front of me a v7 39001 ps2, that outputs no video or sound. The owner of the box was attempting to mod it, but never made it past the little screws on the metal plate. When he put it back together, it didn't boot. I had no trouble removing the little screws which he said he couldn't get out. He said they started to strip, but I notice no signs of stripping.
I looked over the board, and noticed no signs of soldering. I have also disconnected and reconnected all cables. Problem continues...
here are exact symptoms:
-red light comes on with flipping of power switch
-blue and green lights come on with tap of reset
-blue and green lights come on and drive opens with tap of eject
-when a disk is inserted, I notice absolutely no signs of reading (no cd reading sounds)
I've sent him an email asking him if he can remember any event that may have been tramatic to the system while he was messing with it. I am waiting on a response.
I just need advice about what steps some of you would take next to test. I really don't know how he messed it up so bad, without even making it to the motherboard. None of the wires seem damaged except the eject/reset cable was quite twisted. I figure this is probably working since the lights and buttons respond. Only thing I have to go on, is what he says. I don't know this guy personally.
I don't have another v7 around to test individual parts, but I do have a scrap v5/v6 around that is open and works. Can I switch out anything from this system? I just want to narrow the problem down to a specific part. I am guessing it is something on the motherboard, or one of the cables.
Just remember, no soldering iron has touched this system yet, so there are no bridged points or anything to test, it is a clean system.
thanks
UPDATE: The owner says he cannot remember any specific event that may have damaged the PS2 (of course)
Last edited by dotkambot; 11-01-2002 at 07:15 PM.
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11-01-2002,07:21 PM
I believe V5/V6 have different lasers from V7. As for the eject/button cable being twisted dont worry about it, it'll werk as long as theres no rip or hole through it (mine werked when it looked like it had been screwed up but stopped when I put a screw through it lol When I saw stopped only the eject button didnt come one apart from that It worked the same still!).
I don't know your problem however I'd suggest checking the fuses on the motherboard with a multi-meter. Maybe that would help, he may have blown a fuse.
Cheers
Laters
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11-01-2002,10:21 PM
did you make sure the video cable was connected to T.V. ;P
look for the ribon that connects CDVD to the main board. this may have come loose.
Leafs1
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11-02-2002,02:55 AM
I remember a guy who broke his Reset/Eject cable, and instead buying a new one, he tried to fix it cutting the cable and soldering the connector to its new end.
Result: Short circuit. Why? Who knows... The fact is that the cable caused it, and I remember that the problem got fixed by replacing a blown fuse...
Maybe that's a start 
Greets!
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11-02-2002,12:37 PM
Originally posted by 2 Tru CReW
I believe V5/V6 have different lasers from V7. As for the eject/button cable being twisted dont worry about it, it'll werk as long as theres no rip or hole through it...
There is one type of v5 laser that is compatible with the v7 and vice versa). The v5 laser that has no black plastic cover can be swapped into a v7 (I have only come across 1 v5 with this laser). I currently have a v5 and a v7 with swapped lasers that are both working perfectly.
Regarding the ribbon cable, you're right, as long as his power/eject lights come on, and the tray goes in and out, it's fine.
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11-03-2002,04:21 PM
Isn't necessary fully open the unit to get a fuse burn, ¿Why? i don't know but it happens, so check the fuses, the last week, i fixed a no video/sound V7 unit, the problem was a fuse in the back of the board.
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11-04-2002,01:43 PM
Thanks for the tips all around. I am pretty sure it is a fuse after reading all this info... What is the best way to go about testing the fuses? Should I just test for continuity on both sides, and if there is none, that is the bad fuse? Or should I use another setting on my multimeter?
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11-05-2002,10:03 AM
Originally posted by dotkambot
Thanks for the tips all around. I am pretty sure it is a fuse after reading all this info... What is the best way to go about testing the fuses? Should I just test for continuity on both sides, and if there is none, that is the bad fuse? Or should I use another setting on my multimeter?
That's what I've done in the past - check for continuity across the fuses.
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UPDATE –
11-06-2002,09:53 PM
I tested every fuse found on this image:
http://ps2newz.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=7783
which was posted by charlie_ps2. They all came back fine. I closed it up and turned it on again to test it out some more. Here are new observations:
- The fan comes on as normal, when you take it out of standby mode.
-I do notice the dvd drive spinning up and a little bit of reading, like the dvd drive is finding the groove.
-the analog light comes on when you hit the analog button on the joypad
other than that, it is completely dead.
anything else you would try, or should I just give it back to the owner and tell them it is dead. Maybe someone else could fix it, but I think I've tried all I know.
I still don't understand how you can mess it up this bad, just by openning it... He must have major static in his apartment or something crazy.
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Re: UPDATE –
11-06-2002,10:32 PM
Originally posted by dotkambot
I still don't understand how you can mess it up this bad, just by openning it... He must have major static in his apartment or something crazy.
I bet he used his PS2 as a "Love Boat" in a water filled bucket...
Just being curious... If you put a game, does it attempt to load?
Greets!
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