Problem reading DVDs ...CC, MB and now Laser

[mdgil]

I have contacted Rich while writing the last post.

He does remove the antistatic solder because some people are not comfortable with doing that. You can request for them to leave it on if you want.

He is going to replace the laser. He was very easy to work with I was able to 'live chat' with him within seconds. I was impressed.

I will let everyone know what happens with the second one.

[Hoyt]

Well I was thinking, instead of buying different PS2's you might be able to try PS2lenschanger and see if that helps. Its a long shot and probably won't work, but its free.

The thing with this scenario that scares me is that if I remember correctly PS2lenschanger re-programs an EEPROM - which can be risky business.

If you still have your original laser you may want to pop it back in and see if it still reads CD based games to be sure your EEPROM is still functioning correctly. If not a new laser probably won't work.

[mdgil]

Oh so now you tell me.

The old laser is still reading CDs just fine. Thanks for the information.

The thing with this scenario that scares me is that if I remember correctly PS2lenschanger re-programs an EEPROM - which can be risky business.

If you still have your original laser you may want to pop it back in and see if it still reads CD based games to be sure your EEPROM is still functioning correctly. If not a new laser probably won't work.

[mdgil]

This 'New' laser still does not read DVDs or CDs. I am not really sure what to think now. I suspect that the replacement laser may be used. It did have the anti static solder on it like I requested but it just did not look right (added?). Also when I put a q-tip in the bushings there was a little black residue left behind. There was also some writing on the casing on the worm gear side. Last but not least there was the little black adjusting screw in it. Not my screw mind you. This laser will not read a thing (it knows a CD is there but it sees it as blue bottoms including ps1 originals [note I am only testing originals except for BM firmware disk]) and of course Boot Manager went away again. I will try my original laser in tomorrow because I need to get BM back on and it would read CDs.

Did anyone else order a 400Q from Rich's? Is the label on the back a lot number or a serial number? (I ask because it is the same # that was on my first laser.) I need to compare my pics of the first laser against the second.

If anyone else out there tried these lasers... what did you have to do to get them going. I did everything step for step as the manual at http://www.ps400.com/ says to.

[Hoyt]

Last but not least there was the little black adjusting screw in it. Not my screw mind you.

I suspect Richard put that adjustment screw in there to test the laser in one of his units before he shipped it and he wanted to make the installation as easy for you as possible. I have seen him bend over backwards for customers before on his forums so that would be my guess.

With the 400Q I ordered the first V9 I put it in it would read almost nothing DVD wise (only unscratched disks) at first. After a few hours it would not even read them. CDs it would still read. I took the laser out of that unit and put it into another and it would not read anything at all. I took it out and put it into a THIRD unit and it read much better. I then took that drive assembly complete with the laser and put it into the original machine I was having problems with and it read just as good as it did in the third unit (not as good as a 400C mind you, but pretty good). It definitely reads CDs better than the "new" laser I put into a V12 I had laying around just for those games that don't run right from the hard drive.

I guess that what this tells us is this new laser functions, but it does not have the broad range of compatibility that the original 400Cs had (as indicated by the manufacturer recommending them for V5+).

At this point the only thing I can think of that you have not been able to try is another drive assembly. It may be that slight variation that sheds some light on things. It is certainly about the only thing you have not tried so far.

If you were comfortable installing the chip yourself I would suggest just picking up a V7 (or V9 if you like the power functions of the remote like I do) off of eBay that has a bad laser in it and try the 400Q in it. I have bought at least three or four V9s over the last year at a total cost including shipping of less than 15$ each. In each case the only problem was a weak laser. The sellers most likely knew that the lasers for the fat PS2 models were expensive and less than reliable.

Then again, EJM has offered to help you migrate that chip, so maybe you could get another unit and try the laser in it. That way you could test the functionality of the laser before messing with the modchip.

I wish I had more ideas that did not involve a lot of work, but unfortunately getting a fat PS2 to work well often involves some shucking and jiving, so to speak.

[mdgil]

Thanks for the information. I may just contact Rich and see what it would cost for him to do the repair. That way the laser and the motherboard can be eliminated or tested. This way I will not have to deal with it. I see at a new game place around my home (game stop I think) they are selling fat ones for 89.99 and slims for 99.99. Some were opened (repaired) and some were not. I may still look into getting another PS2 anyway but I would want to get one of the models with the best compatibility/performance. I was thinking a v13 with HD combo also because the lasers look cheap and it appears that it could read different disc better. Am I wrong?

I don't mind spending the money to get a good solution (I am married now with no more hobbies hahaa so this is my avenue of stress relief).

[Hoyt]

The way I see it if you plan on running most of your games from the hard drive like I do as long as the laser will read factory originals that is all you need it to do. Shoot, mine doesn't even do that, I install my games over the network using WinHiip. That being said, I would shine on the new units and stick with the fat ones. If you could find a model at GameStop that is the same as yours and buy it, you may be able to swap in your DVD drive assembly and get it working that way.

Look at it this way; if you buy a slim and get someone to install HDCombo for you and THEN a modchip, you have two major modifications that could introduce problems instead of one. Yes, the lasers are cheap, but running hard drives off of them gets expensive quick. Shoot, with the fat ones you don't even have to install a modchip to run games off of the hard drive. I did it (and still do with the living room machine) with a memory card exploit and never had to crack the case.

I realize things are getting aggravating for you but in your case to keep things simple you might want to stick with the fat units for now.

Maybe you could ask around about folks' experience with the HDCombo machines. I thought about building one but you have to factor the cost of the HDCombo equipment along with the modchip as well as the time to install both. I would wager that your current modchip installation is reliable, so the easiest thing for you to do would be to just get a working laser of some kind into your existing unit.

[mdgil]

I chatted with Rich some time a week ago and told him about the laser problems and that when the original laser goes back in that it will read CDs and that the second 400Q would not read a thing. I requested a repair since I do not have lasers at my disposal. I don't see it costing more than twenty bucks or so with shipping so why not. I could not send it back for a week because I was hooked on God of War II and I had to finish it. I sent it in today.

I am still in the process of looking for another PS2 anyway because my daughter wants to play when I play so..... I am looking for a v10 because it is the last fat one. I am also considering a v13. I can't find either at the local 'game stores'. So before I look on line, does any one have a preference? I am not looking to put a hard drive in it but that can change and I would at least like to have the option. v10 stable fattie? v13 bugs worked out and/or cheaper laser? (I know the v13 needs a HDconnect or similar and that would not be a problem if that time comes) This is mostly for my daughter. I may mod chip it and I may not.

Thanks for any suggestions.



EDIT: Hoyt I re-read some post and saw your suggestions... thanks.

[Hoyt]

Through trial and error I have come to like the V9 consoles the best. They have the same functionality as the V10s (you can cycle the power and open the tray from the Sony remote) and usually have the 400C lasers in them (some of them may have had the HD7 units, but I have not come across any that did). I have seen some V10s (and I have a couple) that have the HD7 lasers in them which can not be replaced by the 400Qs if I remember correctly.

As a precaution you may want to do the Romeo mod to help protect the laser lens from the famous "mechanon" crash, but shoot, if you run your games off of the hard drive that would probably never be an issue. I have almost a dozen V9 and 10 units laying around and all of the failures except one have been just worn out lasers. The one that did fail due to a mechanon crash was a V10 with an HD7 laser in it.

Also the lens sled rails tend to stay put better on the later fat units as well.

I have had pretty good functionality with the V9 units and hard drives. If I am playing a game and want to reboot the thing to come back up into ULE I can just push the power button on the remote twice. In the future if the In Game Reset feature of the Crystal Chips gets improved this may not be an issue, but I can use the remote on any system, regardless of the type of mod it has.

As cheap as these units are now (that's how I wound up with so many) you can get one, a network adapter, and a brand new laser for quite possibly less than a slim and an HDCombo unit and have better compatibility as well.

[mdgil]

We live in a world today when we think that newer is better. (Haha NOT always the case [Vista anyone]). I HAVE come across a v9 or two. There is a SCPH-5001 /N (I think date code was a 3c so this is a version 9 right?) at a local 'game place' and it was $89 with a 30 day warranty. I am sure that is a little higher than e-bay BUT not by much and I do want it functional plus it has 30 days. hmmmm... let me know what you think. It was not opened so it is the original laser and it was a bit dusty (fan was very dirty). I may pick it up today or tomorrow.

Through trial and error I have come to like the V9 consoles the best. They have the same functionality as the V10s (you can cycle the power and open the tray from the Sony remote) and usually have the 400C lasers in them (some of them may have had the HD7 units, but I have not come across any that did). I have seen some V10s (and I have a couple) that have the HD7 lasers in them which can not be replaced by the 400Qs if I remember correctly.

As a precaution you may want to do the Romeo mod to help protect the laser lens from the famous "mechanon" crash, but shoot, if you run your games off of the hard drive that would probably never be an issue. I have almost a dozen V9 and 10 units laying around and all of the failures except one have been just worn out lasers. The one that did fail due to a mechanon crash was a V10 with an HD7 laser in it.

Also the lens sled rails tend to stay put better on the later fat units as well.

I have had pretty good functionality with the V9 units and hard drives. If I am playing a game and want to reboot the thing to come back up into ULE I can just push the power button on the remote twice. In the future if the In Game Reset feature of the Crystal Chips gets improved this may not be an issue, but I can use the remote on any system, regardless of the type of mod it has.

As cheap as these units are now (that's how I wound up with so many) you can get one, a network adapter, and a brand new laser for quite possibly less than a slim and an HDCombo unit and have better compatibility as well.