Need some troubleshooting help :/

Okay, so i got my crystal chip and subzero fix.

V12 Slimline, board is a GH-35

stuck in the fix, everything was alright - tested dvd's burnt and not burnt and some games.

put in the chip, made sure there were no bridges, and quadruple checked every connection.

now for the testing....

plugged in, the ps2's idle mode works fine i got the red light and nothing happens.

now if i press the reset button, sometimes it goes on than turns off, sometimes (usually right after i press it again sometimes i need to press it 3 times and it goes on on the 4th)
every time i press the button the screen flashed for a second like its getting a signal, than goes back to black

when it goes on. i hear the fan but the disc reader does absolutely nothing.
its a pitch black screen
than i can hold reset to turn it off again.

while installing it http://www.crystal-chips.com/documen...c1/cc1_v12.jpg on the 3v3 connection, i accidentally ripped of a tiny peice of the resistor, but i bridged it back with solder.

i have electrical tape on all of my exposed connections that could be problematic.

what the heck is my problem? could it be the power ?

edit: Yes shit i think it was the resistor that the 3v3 conencts to... ill post a pic tomorrow >_< (before i posted this my power was accidentally bridged to another resistor)
it was the little metal bit i broke off, in the diagram where it says to attach the 3v3, that end of the resistor.

what do you guys think i can do about this..... i mean, it doesnt look like i can easily replace it.

Probably best to take off the chip and your wiring, check over the lot for any solder slashes and bridges. Fire it up, see if it'll behave like a stock PS2.
If that's ok, then you can just clean some of the track that the component at the 3v3 point is connected to (I believe it's actually a fuse) and solder the 3v3 wire to the track rather than the component.
You said you bridged to one of those adjacent resistors, if they're connected to the same track as the 3v3 connection point it shouldn't matter, in the diagram it looks that way, with the board in front of you should be able to tell.
The 1 second green light and back to standby from my experience is generally because something is shorting to ground, if you have a multimeter you should be able to locate it fairly quickly if it's one of your wire connections by checking resistance between each connection point and ground.

Here are pictures of my install, i think i might have to replace that fuse/resistor....
i really REALLY dont want to resolder the chip off/on - it was one of the hardest things i have ever done

its messy i know ;_; this is the first time i've had to do something this precise.

This is the 3v3 - notice the melted flux and burnt board around it - this is the result of me trying to fix it. Also check out how the silver piece going into the top is missing from one side, now did that break the thing, or is the connection on the bottom - where the large track runs into it.

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/7...1916fp9.th.jpg
http://img431.imageshack.us/img431/2...1917ax3.th.jpg
http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/465/dscn1918yr6.th.jpg

If it is in fact broken (still gotta desolder everything and check >_<) what should i do to replace the thing?

here is the chip

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/7...1919tn2.th.jpg

the GND

http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/2...1920qh3.th.jpg

the VIA's (AFBIGH on the chip)

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/3...1921sv3.th.jpg

the SX wire

http://img286.imageshack.us/img286/2...1922ix9.th.jpg

Pads (PONMWQTUVR on chip)

http://img480.imageshack.us/img480/2...1926yd9.th.jpg

the whole thing

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/4...1928at3.th.jpg

You said i could solder the 3v3 onto the track? where.... could you label it on my picture?

and what exactly do i do to check the connection to the ground, could you go into a little bit more detail please?

EDIT: Okay so i checked the resistance beetween each connection point and the groundconnection on the chip, all of the wires have close to the same resistance (around the 5 mark on my meter) none of them were zero

i checked the resistance on either side of the fuse too and its still there - so i dont think i blew it (luckily), the small resistor it was bridged to isnt on the same track - you can see on the pictures

now would no power going to the chip cause it do have the error where it goes on for a second and back to standby? and if so can one of you guys point me to an alternate 3v3 point for a v12 GH-35 board or show me the track i can solder it to? (draw it in on my photo?)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tunaghost

Here are pictures of my install, i think i might have to replace that fuse/resistor....
i really REALLY dont want to resolder the chip off/on - it was one of the hardest things i have ever done

its messy i know ;_; this is the first time i've had to do something this precise.

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It's easier the second time round, removing the chip and cleaning up then testing is generally the simplest way to eliminate install related problems and make sure the PS2 is still alive.

Quote:

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This is the 3v3 - notice the melted flux and burnt board around it - this is the result of me trying to fix it. Also check out how the silver piece going into the top is missing from one side, now did that break the thing, or is the connection on the bottom - where the large track runs into it.

If it is in fact broken (still gotta desolder everything and check >_<) what should i do to replace the thing?

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Doesn't look too bad, mostly just looks like burnt rosin out of the solder. As long as you have continuity through it it should be ok.

Quote:

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You said i could solder the 3v3 onto the track? where.... could you label it on my picture?

and what exactly do i do to check the connection to the ground, could you go into a little bit more detail please?

EDIT: Okay so i checked the resistance beetween each connection point and the groundconnection on the chip, all of the wires have close to the same resistance (around the 5 mark on my meter) none of them were zero

i checked the resistance on either side of the fuse too and its still there - so i dont think i blew it (luckily), the small resistor it was bridged to isnt on the same track - you can see on the pictures

now would no power going to the chip cause it do have the error where it goes on for a second and back to standby? and if so can one of you guys point me to an alternate 3v3 point for a v12 GH-35 board or show me the track i can solder it to? (draw it in on my photo?)

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No power to the chip wont matter, if it has no power it does nothing.

May be something touching the RF sheilding (the metal plating that covers the ps2) I've had that happen before, you can get away with powering the board up without the sheilding and sinks on and just the power/reset pcb connected for a quick test which will eliminate that problem. Just make sure you turn it off within about 5 seconds, that'll give you long enough to see if it'll instantly turn off again, check the LED on the crystal chip (if it's a CC1.1) also it should flash for about half a second (if not something doesn't have an adequate connection).

For the 3v3 point, the fuse jumps from one track to a track with a bank of three resistors on it, this is the side of the fuse used for the connection in the diagram so it shouldn't be a drama to use that track instead of the fuse (if you're worried about damaging it). You can clean the enamel off and just solder it straight down on there where you can find space.

Once you have everything working I'd suggest you desolder the wires from their chip connection, one by one figure out a nice path for them, shorten them, resolder them to the chip and secure them down.

***Edit***
Actually, just thinking about it, you should be able to just hook the 3v connection up to the same point crystal uses on the V14's, probably easier.

A quick google turned up this so it can be done without a drama and is a nice short, straight wire run.
http://www.norcalmods.com/gallery/di...album=12&pos=8

its dead, i just did it :( damn fuse is blown

what are they called, so i can get a new one?