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Thread: Modded PS2 - Never worked, trying to fix.
  

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  1. #1 Modded PS2 - Never worked, trying to fix. 
    TerraIncognita is offline Registered User
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    Howdy. I've traversed the internet in an attempt to find a mod chip forum that had some active folk and stumbled upon this one. I was hoping to get help in figuring out why my PS2 doesn't work, and possibly toss me in the right direction in fixing the thing by either getting it to work with or without the modchip (i.e. removing the chip to restore function to the system.)

    To give some preliminary details: This PS2 worked fine before it was modded, it ceased working after being modded and returned to me. The job was done by my uncle, so its not like I sent it away and someone may have just installed junk (though my uncles eyesight is poor due to a lifetime of soldering which is possibly the culprit :x ). The chip is indeed a Crystal Chip, I bought it myself. This was all about two or three years ago.

    I'm fairly eager to either fix or trash this thing and get a new one if need be, I have all the tools and some moderate experience in soldering, as well as a multimeter to test the connections if need be. I can also upload pictures of the job as well if it'd help.

    I've gone as far as to take the PS2 apart so the chip and board are all open in front of me, I just wanted to see if I could find some help before I went any further.
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  2. #2  
    SP193's Avatar
    SP193 is offline The fallen spartan...
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    What is this PS2's model?

    Does the PS2 power on (The standby light turns green when pushed)? Does it even show power when you supply power (Red standby light)?

    I can only say that you could try to unsolder the modchip, or just try to check for any incorrect wiring/bad soldering (Which may be better, depending on how you see it).

    I heard that slimlines (Especially the 75K series) have very sensitive fuses that fuse easily, and will have to be replaced if they have fused from heat from the soldering equipment.

    Since you said that it's a crystal chip, I suggest that you get a copy of the wiring diagrams for your modchip for that console's version (E.g. If it's a SCPH-77001 get the diagram for the 77001, or if it's a 39006 the 39006 diagram).

    Note that wiring diagrams are usually not the same across different PS2 locale versions, and definitely not the same across different revisions!
    Unmodified SCPH-77006 with SM 3.6
    SCPH-39006 with M-chip modchip, SCPH-10281 NA and refurb Seagate 80GB HDD
    SCPH-10000 v1.00 with SCPH-10190 PCMCIA NA and SCPH-20400 HDD unit
    PS2ESDL v0.823B

    やっほー 汗がひかる♪
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  3. #3  
    shagster is offline Member
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    Have a look for solder bridges on the bios chip,its very easily bridged as the chip legs are so close together.A good magnifying glass would help you see that,i used the small lenses from a pair of binoculars myself,which worked pretty well Also check for pinched wires from the (metal casing) ground shield.Btw this chip doesn't come with the firmware installed,so when you get your ps2 going again,you're going to have to install the firmware yourself.
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  4. #4  
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    I too had a same experience somewhat. I bought 2 chips and installed the first on my ps2 with success, then gave my ps2 to my friend and got his to try the same job again. I did not have the passion the second time though and I stopped half way ( I did 6-7 solderings out of the whole 22 or something and gave up.)

    I had that ps2 opened with parts one on top of the other up on my cubbord for about 2 or three years.. maybe more :S

    then when I found this forum I used the one ps2 that was ok to make a fmcb memorycard. then unwired all the stuff from the other ps2 and luckily it worked like a charm! after that I uninstalled the chip from the other ps2 aswell as I just hate to use a chip when nice and cool software can do the same (and better).

    so maybe if you are lucky and there is no damage on the board, if you just unwire gently all the cables it might work. I suggest not to waste time with a chip.
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  5. #5  
    TerraIncognita is offline Registered User
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    The PS2 model is "SCPH-30001", I don't recall which version we identified it as originally but it looks like it isn't straight forward based on this site:
    http://www.psxservices.co.uk/ps2_version.htm

    Regarding the power light - from what I recall, it was a red power light. When I tried to start it up originally to flash it this occurred, I checked on a forum years back and based on the light they suggested I check for bridges. At that point I decide to stop since I was busy with school, and didn't have the equipment to handle it anyway.

    It may be possible that we incorrectly identified the PS2 version originally, which would suck - going forward with no hope of success, hah. I'll take a look and see if I can figure out what version it actually is.

    Edit: Okay, based on the site linked above I should have a Version 5 PS2. However the images don't match exactly. The part that it shows as being upside down or not matches the V5 PS2 image, though.

    Here is a link to my board: http://yfrog.com/c9wholeoj

    I'm still trying to find my old files, I suspect we may have used a PS2 Version 4 schematic but I can't tell for sure until I find the print outs. Somewhat doubt it because it'd be more likely to mistake a Version 5 for a 6 than to mistake them for a 4.

    Edit again: Okay, derp - I looked further down the list. My PS2 is actually a Version 4 so we worked with the right schematics.

    So, uh, in addition to any form of helpful input that may come to mind, I'd also like to ask if there is an effective way to remove that glaze-like residue that has collected over the chips?

    Also, I think my next step is to desolder the chip, re-assemble the PS2 and try to see if it runs. Is there anything I should do before this? Assuming it works out I may or may not try to put the chip back in, but I suppose I can decide this later.
    Last edited by TerraIncognita; 05-12-2010 at 07:20 AM.
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  6. #6  
    SP193's Avatar
    SP193 is offline The fallen spartan...
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    The PS2 model is "SCPH-30001", I don't recall which version we identified it as originally but it looks like it isn't straight forward based on this site:
    http://www.psxservices.co.uk/ps2_version.htm
    Could be anything from

    Regarding the power light - from what I recall, it was a red power light. When I tried to start it up originally to flash it this occurred, I checked on a forum years back and based on the light they suggested I check for bridges. At that point I decide to stop since I was busy with school, and didn't have the equipment to handle it anyway.
    So it won't power on at all (Light doesn't change from red to green when you press it)?

    Edit again: Okay, derp - I looked further down the list. My PS2 is actually a Version 4 so we worked with the right schematics.
    Then you're still on the right track.

    So, uh, in addition to any form of helpful input that may come to mind, I'd also like to ask if there is an effective way to remove that glaze-like residue that has collected over the chips?
    Residue? Wouldn't just wiping them clean the chips (Unless it's sticky)?

    Don't remove anything that looks like a thermal pad or thermal paste though - they're used to keep certain chips in the PS2 cool. Both of these substances are usually light grey or white.

    Also, I think my next step is to desolder the chip, re-assemble the PS2 and try to see if it runs. Is there anything I should do before this? Assuming it works out I may or may not try to put the chip back in, but I suppose I can decide this later.
    Also check for connections that are bridged when they should not be.

    Whatever you do: Make sure that you do not strain any of the ribbon cables (I ripped the tab off one, but used super glue to glue it back)!

    Also, avoid touching the laser eye (Worse still - apply pressure to it!)... I accidentally did that and kinda worsened it's condition (Couldn't read backup discs properly after that).
    Unmodified SCPH-77006 with SM 3.6
    SCPH-39006 with M-chip modchip, SCPH-10281 NA and refurb Seagate 80GB HDD
    SCPH-10000 v1.00 with SCPH-10190 PCMCIA NA and SCPH-20400 HDD unit
    PS2ESDL v0.823B

    やっほー 汗がひかる♪
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  7. #7  
    TerraIncognita is offline Registered User
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    This is from memory, but the light was red. I'm somewhat unsure. However, what I am certain of is that when I explained the light situation to someone on a forum, they told me to check for bridges. Moot point now though as I've gone ahead and removed the chip just moments ago.

    Might leave assembling and testing the unit out for later, but as for bridges...

    After removing all the cables and giving it a closer look, I'd have to say if any bridges exist I cannot see them :x. Also, some of those really packed connections on the chips seem to have bent-ish legs. It may simply be solder that wasn't removed, I was a tad too scared to heat it up too much when using desolder wick in fear of melting them off (I saw a picture of someone who totally removed the legs off of the chip and fixed it via replacing them with solder - beyond my ability I'm sure).

    I'll run through with an xacto knife and give it a few extra looks before I seal it up and try it out.

    Regarding the residue: I'm referring to the acidic stuff mixed in with the solder that leaves a brownish glazed fluid. Will they create problems, like creating a layer that will prevent conductivity?

    Also thanks everyone who's posted! I appreciate the guidance as I'm flying blind here. More or less my first actual soldering job and on such a tiny board to boot.
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  8. #8  
    SP193's Avatar
    SP193 is offline The fallen spartan...
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    This is from memory, but the light was red. I'm somewhat unsure
    What I meant was what colour did the power LED change to (If it did change) when you pressed it?

    After removing all the cables and giving it a closer look, I'd have to say if any bridges exist I cannot see them :x. Also, some of those really packed connections on the chips seem to have bent-ish legs. It may simply be solder that wasn't removed, I was a tad too scared to heat it up too much when using desolder wick in fear of melting them off (I saw a picture of someone who totally removed the legs off of the chip and fixed it via replacing them with solder - beyond my ability I'm sure).
    Possibly.

    I think that you should find good, clear photographs of a v4's mainboard, and try to see what are the differences between a working board and yours - in those areas that were tempered before.

    Anyways, if it seems like there are legs on a chip that seemed to have been bridged by excess solder, you can try to remove them.

    I'll run through with an xacto knife and give it a few extra looks before I seal it up and try it out.
    You should be careful when using a knife there - a slight abrasion to the PCB could mean the end.

    Regarding the residue: I'm referring to the acidic stuff mixed in with the solder that leaves a brownish glazed fluid. Will they create problems, like creating a layer that will prevent conductivity?
    I'm not too sure... I've never experienced any short-circuits (Or insulation issues, except when that brown residue gets into the way when I solder - then it prevents the solder from sticking) caused by that residue before - but I've never soldered a PS2's mainboard before though (I only know the theory(!)).

    I usually just carefully scratch that reside off with a screwdriver though (After all of my repair/soldering projects).

    If you need to solder an area with that brown residue, I think that solder flux may help to clean out that area first....

    It may simply be solder that wasn't removed, I was a tad too scared to heat it up too much when using desolder wick in fear of melting them off (I saw a picture of someone who totally removed the legs off of the chip and fixed it via replacing them with solder - beyond my ability I'm sure).
    If you use a soldering braid to remove solder, I don't think that it's very easy to damage a board... but a desoldering pump would certainly suck vias out!

    Anyways, just let the board cool off if it does heat up too much when you solder it.

    After removing all the cables and giving it a closer look, I'd have to say if any bridges exist I cannot see them :x.
    You need clear photographs of a v4's mainboard to see what are the differences between a working board and yours, in those areas that were tempered before.

    The PS2's mainboard's copper tracks are already very small... so they are really tough to check for soldering faults.
    Unmodified SCPH-77006 with SM 3.6
    SCPH-39006 with M-chip modchip, SCPH-10281 NA and refurb Seagate 80GB HDD
    SCPH-10000 v1.00 with SCPH-10190 PCMCIA NA and SCPH-20400 HDD unit
    PS2ESDL v0.823B

    やっほー 汗がひかる♪
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  9. #9  
    JNABK's Avatar
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    You might find some good example diagrams here:

    http://sksapps.com/index.php?page=di...stalchips.html

    And compare them to your install.
    PS2 Consoles:
    SCPH-30001 [V4] - unmodded (2)
    SCPH-30001-R [V5] DMS4 Pro SE
    SCPH-50001-N [V9] CC 2.0 SLE
    SCPH-79001 [V16] Silver - unmodded

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  10. #10  
    TerraIncognita is offline Registered User
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    Thanks JNABK, those seem to be the original diagrams from CC's site.

    SP193: The LED was red with the chip in.

    And, I've re-assembled the PS2 after taking the chip and all the wires out, and attempted to run it. I got a green light, the fan was running, the CD tray opened/closed, however I got no splash screen - the TV Video 1 screen flickered when I turned the PS2 on, but it just stays black. I tried a disk and no difference in the screen.

    When I try to run a disk the disk drive spins up a few times silently until it runs, but this doesn't result in anything on screen.

    Also, I don't think the controllers are getting power since that red toggle light on them won't switch on - but it may simply not be getting to the part where I have that option, I suppose.

    Any thoughts?

    Also, as a side note (though I'm not ready to give up on the current PS2 just yet) we do have another PS2 that is either version 8 or 9. It was bought for like 15~ dollars at a garage sale, since the disk tray was a bit smashed. How feasible would it be to swap my V4 PS2's disk tray with this ones and simply continue the solder job on a V8/V9 PS2? As it stands I have a few non-US region games that I want to play but never could due to regions so the PS2 are more or less useless to me un-modded (i.e., I'm willing to risk breaking two in an attempt to get one with a mod chip installed).
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