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Thread: Problem with Stealth IV chip for mini ps1...
  

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  1. #1 Problem with Stealth IV chip for mini ps1... 
    robx46 is offline Member
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    Just installed the Stealth IV mod chip (6 wire). I just bought this new a few days ago. Figured it would be good and easy to throw this chip in (I've installed chips in a couple old model ps1's and even ps2, and so I do have soldering experience with such things).

    But this was my first chip installed on the mini ps1, and this one was mine, wasn't doing this for somebody else for a change. This is the 101 ntsc version.

    Anyhow, all the connections seemed good and tight, so I just lightly put the big metal piece back on, then put the laser unit back on. No obvious signs of problems. I was going to screw the top plastic half (the lid) back on once I knew the installation was OK.

    I plugged it in, and it turned on, the splash screen came up (had an original psx disc in for testing) and I thought things were all good. But after the splash screen, I was taken to the memory card screen because the disc never started to spin, and the laser never turned on! DAMN!

    Now, unlike the older psx, the ribbon connector from the laser was a pain to remove because it had like a sticky glue inside the connector. But I was able to get it out in one piece, no obvious damage. The other plug came out easy.
    So I can't possibly imagine that I damaged the laser.

    Next, I figured maybe one of the connections were bad, so I desoldered everything and tried everything all over again, being extra careful. Again, everything went well, I laid the metal heat sheild on lightly, put the laser unit back on, hit the power button......

    Then NOTHING! No power light, everything was dead!

    Can somebody please tell me what could of possibly gone wrong here? The board is in tact.
    I didn't hold the iron on any pad for more than a second or two (and I'm using a nice low 15 watt iron), so I can't imagine I fried something that way.

    Lastly, I removed the wires from the chip (leaving them on the board) and tried again to see if maybe the chip caused the problem, but I got the same result.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. I actually paid good $$ for this console in new condition. I've never had anything nearly this bad happen before on any other of the mods I've done.

    I would also love to see a motherboard layout for this unit, seeing what areas are related to what function so that I can mess around with trying to fix it. Or maybe you guys could tell me where the problem might be.
    But as of now, I don't even know where to start.

    Thanks, this is my first post here, sorry it is so long, but I want to explain thoroughly!
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  2. #2  
    percoco2000's Avatar
    percoco2000 is offline Member
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    I've no idea of a ntsc board , only pal, but in first i suggest to start to check the power supply form the connector to the voltage regulatord on the board (starting from the one you connected the PIC vcc) and check all the fuses on the board (Some cubic black component whit a big number on it)
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  3. #3  
    robx46 is offline Member
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    Yeah, I was thinking it was a possible blown fuse. Maybe a couple. I had thought I had covered the chip and exposed wires well enough, but something must of touched the heat shield or something else it wasn't supposed to.

    I was hoping it wasn't a fuse, but after checking with a multimeter I'm pretty sure that I have at least one blown. I never changed a fuse before, and I've heard of people changing fuses on ps2's and even being able to buy them, however, I did a quick look and couldn't find any anyhow for the psone.

    Rather than go through that anyhow, I think I just take the sure route and buy a new mobo for about $15 as I know I can order one of those from somebody.
    Still, I was hoping I could avoid that, but that is probably what I will do.

    Unless one of you guys has another idea. If it is only the power supply that is the problem, I wonder if I could just buy one of those somewhere? But psone parts seem hard to find.
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  4. #4  
    percoco2000's Avatar
    percoco2000 is offline Member
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    Considering you're going to trow away your mobo, just try to repair it, if you don't succede trow it away .
    You can use some standard glass fuses, just broke the glass and use the thin wire inside to bridge the fuses point. After that desolder the mod wires and test it. If didn't wor send me a pictures of the mobo, i'll try to give you some hints.
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  5. #5  
    robx46 is offline Member
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    Hey, to do this fuse trick, the fuse blown has a 10 on it. Does this mean that I need to use a 10 amp fuse?

    Also, I'm not sure I know exactly what you mean about how to bridge the fuse point, like you said. I have a guess how to do it, but is there pics anywhere of this repair?
    That would be great.
    Thanks.
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  6. #6  
    percoco2000's Avatar
    percoco2000 is offline Member
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    Soory no pics. What i mean is to desolder the fuse and solder instead a piece of the fuse wire. for the value look at this table
    10 = 1.0 Amp
    15 = 1.5 Amp
    20 = 2.0 Amp
    30 = 3.5 Amp
    50 = 5.0 Amp
    63 = 6.3 Amp
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  7. #7 Smile  
    satlover is offline Member
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    Where do you set your digital multimeter to diagnos the fuses?
    i am having the same problem like buddy here.
    Thanks
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  8. #8  
    dlanor is offline Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by satlover View Post
    Where do you set your digital multimeter to diagnos the fuses?
    i am having the same problem like buddy here.
    I'm not sure I understand your question correctly. It could mean either what points on the circuit board you need to measure, or what measurement range to set on the multimeter for any fuse measurement.

    Since I don't know how to find the fuses on each PS1 model (you need to check schematics and board layouts for each) I'll assume you meant what multimeter range to use. This is easily answered as you simply need to use the lowest resistance range available. When functional all normal fuses should have a very low resistance, often just a fraction of an Ohm.

    That resistance is still important, as it is what makes the fuse 'blow' at overcurrents, but to most resistance measurement ranges it will simply show up as a 'short circuit', just as if you join the two probe tips together directly.

    Best regards: dlanor
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