The Switch Works!

[VicViper]

I have just fitted my V7 console Magic3 with a switch from Radio Shack (Part#275-409) and all my problems are solved. No more freezing! It's sad that the chip couldn't have been perfected more before being released, but I am happy now that I can at least play games without the system crashing. Thanks for all your help guys!

[rewen]

What wire did you put the switch on?

[Joe Mama]

I am guessing he ran it like most everyone else (i.e. from the +5v to the GND)
Like such...

-Me

[kizmet]

Post pics of were you put your switch

[FrAnC3SkOSAT]

Can put a switch also on 3.5 + clip kit

how?

tnx:confused:

[snoopdiggy]

please, vic viper or JoeMama...or anybody, could they please post pics of this switch installed??

[unknown_g]

I too can affirm that the switch works, fitted it on my friends v4 tonight with a magic3 (3.0). although i have only used my backup dvdr kingdom hearts for testing now (only three full intro loading so far--but will go for 10 tries). I don't think i will do vice city for hours as i have a lot to do before i go away for a long trip and can't sit here and play for 4+ hours, sorry :( . I included a pic of the switch externally. I didn't want to remove the cover and everything else since i used the diagram of the switch that is posted in one of these threads. But i did do something diff'tly: I used a ground point on the motherboard rather than the one on the chip; no particular reason, i just preferred the one on the board over the chip.

Another thing i did was first attach the switch to the case case before wiring it, and then i used long pieces of wiring( ~ 6-8 inches of 26 awg wire) in case i had to remove the case, i didn't want to snag on the connections from the case or the chip.

The method i used to start Kingdom hearts (or any game):

- make sure master power switch of ps2 (back of ps2) is off
- turn the magic3 switch on, then the master power switch on
- if game is not in ps2:
a. hit eject, load game then hold reset until tray retracts and ps2 goes to standby
- tap reset and wait until you see anything from the game being loaded (but not "loading")
- then turn off the switch and enjoy a booted backup on your "undetectable" modded ps2 :) (I like that last part---"A modded ps2, who me, NO WAY!!")

And just to report as i'm typing this, on my fourth try i got a freezing --- but only because i forgot to turn off the switch when the intro was running. I rebooted and turned off the switch at the appropiate time and it went through with out a hiccup.

Oh one more thing, when i want to but in another game, i now turn off the ps2's master switch then turn on the magic3 switch on. Call me paranoid or whatever, but i would rather like to keep my $235 then have to give it to my friend because i messed up his ps2 because i was too lazy to flip a switch on the back of the ps2. Now these are my experiences, you might have similar or diff't results; do this at your own risk.

Now all i need is to mount a switch for my V5 w/Apple chip.

[kizmet]

how much would you charge for the switch installed on a PS2 witha a magic 3 already installed in it? and how much for to mod a ps2 and place a switch? whats your location




-kiZmet

[VicViper]

Sorry for the lack of details........I followed the diagram that was posted in another thread. Check out the attatched image for installation instructions. I have a brand new V7 console, and I backup games with Ritek DVD+R on a Sony DRU-500A. I follow the same boot procedure as unknown_g except that I turn the switch to the off position as soon as I see that blip of white lines after the Playstation 2 logo appears. Everything is running perfectly now, which is such a relief after all of the trial and error troubleshooting I have suffered. I wonder if the Magic 3.1 also requires a switch to operate correctly. It really is pathetic that the Magic 3 is a buggy modchip. How could they release it with all of these problems? Anyway, all I can say is that I would not have solved my problems without the help of this forum. Thanks to all of you for your help.

[VicViper]

Having trouble attatching images....sorry

[Joe Mama]

No, the magic 3.1 shouldnt 'require' a switch - but with the possibility of $ony making online game protection it may be a necessary evil for ALL swap modchips to play BACKUPS online.
-Me

[unknown_g]

kizmet, if you were talking to me, i'm sorry i won;t be able to do it for you because i'm going on a long trip, really long. I leave this weekend and won't be back for a while. It's not really that had to install the switch (easier than the magic3 chip), but i can understand you not wanting to do it yourself.

[kizmet]

ok, by the way, your ps2 is Dirty clean is :lol:

[RockerNJ]

Just do it like the pic in Joe Moma's post, and the freezing will stop. Please note: you have to do it just like the pic. I tried adding the switch to just flip the +5V/Gnd on the pcb, and it didn't work. You MUST cut the trace on the PCB and do it straight to the chip, so that it doesn't ground the other connection on the PCB. Also another thing I learned during this whole modding trip. Make sure when burning backups, that your CD-R supports DAO RAW+96. I have an older sony, an older HP, and a hitachi, ALL of them wont work, as they are listed as SAO. A good place to lookup is on the elaborate bytes site (CloneCD). Good luck, and thanks to everyone on the scene making these things possible.

[SniperKilla]

http://members.verizon.net/~vze4dt3c/switch1.jpg

http://members.verizon.net/~vze4dt3c/switch2.jpg

external style :)

i used a little hotglue, and the switch stays pefrectly in place.

[Bgnome]

whats the part number on that switch?

[SniperKilla]

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F010%5F007%5F003%5F000&product%5Fid=275%2D626

[Bgnome]

heres my placement (sorry if its a bit blurry)

[kizmet]

BG and Unknown your placement is cool im prolly gonna put mines somewere around there (i really like BGs looks more high tech) Snipkil, yours suck-dilly-uck (FLANDERS)

[RockerNJ]

took a pic of my switch install, a lot cleaner looking, but voids the crap outta your warranty! :)

P.S. The radio shack part# for that switch is 275-635 SPDT mini toggle.

[snoopdiggy]

yes, the switch does work! i was so happy with mine working, that i played it right away..and did not bother to even secure the switch on the playstation. hahahahaha

right now, it is attached to 3 wires and sitting in my expansion bay.

but, thank you all to the homebrew scene who have helped me make my defective magic3 useful again!

BACK TO FFX international! =)

[kizmet]

well the first part about the swithc works, now for the second part, can anyone verify that the swithc works with online play?

[SniperKilla]

yep it might suck, but it works, stays in place fine, and i dident have to drill for my shit.

[Bgnome]

i didnt drill either..but it would have been easier ;)

[Gazdaman]

Originally posted by kizmet Snipkil, yours suck-dilly-uck (FLANDERS) [/B]

*deep booming voice* do you know who you're talking to!

:D

Gaz

[Games4Hire]

Now the question is does this make online backup playing possible? If so what can be done for a messiah 2 switch that would allow online play?

[Bgnome]

so far, no mod has any problems with playing backups online. no game out yet has implemented DNAS. we will not be certain about anything until a game comes out with this system.

[bmrboy]

so installing switch will 100% stop Kingdom Hearts and GTA:Vice City from freezing and crashing ??

[Joe Mama]

Yup

[RockerNJ]

Originally posted by bmrboy
so installing switch will 100% stop Kingdom Hearts and GTA:Vice City from freezing and crashing ??

Worked for me :p

[elanore]

worked for my magic3/v7.pal.39004.gh022 too
I only tried it on gta vice city

[jason63]

Please Help!
I have a ps2 v7.
Magic 3.5 (3.0 code)
Would like to put a switch on it but points are different.
can you please help?

I want to play my vice city!!

[jason63]

I have the magic 3.5 (same code as 3.0)
Wish to install a switch.
am having trouble determining the points for the switch and where to cut the ground.

basically: I want to find the 5V and cut where it goes to on the pcb (don't know where that is yet)

1. get a 3 pole switch one side 5v
2. opposite side gnd
3. center where the ground was goind to on the pcb board.

Is this right?

[elanore]

jason63 > i'd rather say:

3. center where the 5V was going to on the pcb board


but wait for confirmation from someone else before starting anything

[jason63]

Thanks elanore
I ment to type:

1. get a 3 pole switch one side 5v
2. opposite side gnd
3. center where the 5V was goind to on the pcb board.

THANK YOU
But is this right and is anyone familiar with the magic 3.5

[Bgnome]

you are supposed to cut the 5v line to the mclr pin and wire around that for the magic. i heard if you dont cut the line, the switch wont work.
but i didnt cut any traces on my XO-2 and the switch seems to work ok so far..

[RockerNJ]

see my post here for a tutorial on putting a switch on a magic 3
http://www.ps2newz.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4919

[jason63]

I have a ps2 v7.
Magic 3.5 (3.0 code)
Would like to put a switch on it but points are different.
can you please help?

In my picture i've marked 5v, mclr, and Ground.

I have 2 question and 1 problem.

1. question do I need to put a 4.7K Resistor anywhere (by 5v)?

2. Is this statement right? on the 3 way switch put 5v one side, mclr center, ground on the otherside.

PROBLEM: I can't trace the 5v to the mclr it's not on the top of the pcb board and can't see it on the bottom either.
Here is a monstrosity of a pic. top pic of chip. bottom pic (mirriored to make it easier to refrence, & a combonation of the 2 super imposed.
(hope i'ts good enough)

could I lift the mclr pin off the board to disconect it from the 5v? ( I know they are conected but can't find where!!!)

HELP! :arg:

[RockerNJ]

I'll have to double check this when I get home (at work right now) but I would think that the main +5VDC for the chip would be on pin1 and ground would be either 14 or 28 depending on the chip (hard to tell without having the part number for a blank chip) Anyway, ignore the mclr thing, that was a different type of fix someone else posted. What you are interested in doing is simply turning the chip on/off, which is accomplished by either putting +5V to the main chip power(ON) or grounding it(OFF) The only reason you use ground is so that you dont get and transient current leakage through the chip.

[RockerNJ]

check this diagram. Ohm the spot I marked to pin 1 of the chip and see if thats the 5V line.

1. question do I need to put a 4.7K Resistor anywhere (by 5v)?
No

2. Is this statement right? on the 3 way switch put 5v one side, mclr center, ground on the otherside.
No, forget about mclr. You put center post to pin 1 on the chip, put one side to 5V and the other side to Gnd

[jason63]

from the pic rocker marked...
what you marked goes to pin 3 & 4

straight from the 5V.

[Joe Mama]

The only reason you needed to go to the MCLR on the M3 is because you had no place to solder inbetween where the 5v came off the pad and the MCLR itself. If you have a via that is an intermediate to the pin you can always do that - but be careful.
-Me

[Bgnome]

joe: i dont see why you advocate cutting tracks if the MCLR doesnt require grounding specifically.

if you just wanted to switch the 3.3v/5v feed to any chip, all you need to do is wire the 3.3v/5v point on the chip to the center prong on the switch. then you can wire one of the other prongs to the power source, (whatever point you are supposed to use on the board), and the 3rd prong to ground, (either on the chip or the board).

i thought the whole reason of cutting the track to the MCLR was to cut off the power to that particular pin and ground it specifically. i remember reading a post saying that this was required for the magic 3.0 and that grounding the power feed entirely did not work. but it seems to work on my xo-2 so far and i would guess that it works on an apple. but a magic 3.5 would most likely act like a 3.0. if you have good reason to believe that specific grounding of the MCLR is not required, (on the magic or any other chip), then let me know. but until i get a REALLY good reason, im not gonna go and damage the pcb on my chip.

[Joe Mama]

Originally posted by Bgnome
joe: i dont see why you advocate cutting tracks if the MCLR doesnt require grounding specifically.

if you just wanted to switch the 3.3v/5v feed to any chip, all you need to do is wire the 3.3v/5v point on the chip to the center prong on the switch. then you can wire one of the other prongs to the power source, (whatever point you are supposed to use on the board), and the 3rd prong to ground, (either on the chip or the board).

i thought the whole reason of cutting the track to the MCLR was to cut off the power to that particular pin and ground it specifically. i remember reading a post saying that this was required for the magic 3.0 and that grounding the power feed entirely did not work. but it seems to work on my xo-2 so far and i would guess that it works on an apple. but a magic 3.5 would most likely act like a 3.0. if you have good reason to believe that specific grounding of the MCLR is not required, (on the magic or any other chip), then let me know. but until i get a REALLY good reason, im not gonna go and damage the pcb on my chip.

The MCLR itself doesnt require the grounding. The chip itself does. What you are doing in essence when you cut the track is ensuring that the rest of the chip (MCLR in M3s case) gets NO power unless you tell it to. 5v is going to run to the 5v point on the chip weather you want it to or not. So, by cutting a track and interrupting the flow to the rest of the chip (by diverting it to GND) you are effectively completing the circuit. (Just without the chip) Your way may work fine, BUT there is still some juice going to the rest of your chip. Yes, it may be diverted to GND, but some power is going to follow along the uncut track to the rest of the chip. The reason yours may work without the track being cut is because there isnt enough power going to the chip to make it "Functional" - but it still may be sending some signals to the PS2 that you dont know about (And $ony may or may not be able to pick up on these) I am hoping for ... Not (for all of our sakes) :)
Thanks for your help though Bgnome - you are one of the peeps who had helped out alot of the other sceners here too as far as the switch goes :)
-Me

[Bgnome]

"5v is going to run to the 5v point on the chip weather you want it to or not."

i was under the assumption that there is only 1 source of power on the chips in question. the way i have it set up, i dont see how ANY power gets to the chip. if the GND point on the chip is grounded, and the power point is grounded then the chip is "off" correct? all my switch does is alternate between sending power to the chip or grounding it along the same line.

i understand your logic, but i feel you are still thinking "inside the box" :p or specifically, about the modchip circuitry. i still am unclear as to why you cannot just play around with the power feed line since it accomplishes the exact same task electronically, except for the part about grounding the MCLR specifically.

maybe a picture would make more sense..
just to reiterate, in this setup the power feed is connected through the switch, (not directly to the chip) but the chip is still connected to ground.

[kamaleon]

i used a (continuency) volt metter and found that the track were the cut is suggested is the 5v and goes to the MCLR (ping 28)

also the 5v if fed to pin 3 and 4

should we use the same technique on 3.5 that people used on the magic 3?

1. cutting the track from 5v to mclr
2. use a 3 leg switch
3. and use the ground to conect to the third leg of the switch to short the mclr

Can anyone verify this?

[jason63]

the pic you have is of my 3.5 so I can verify that the 5v goes to pin 3 & 4 and that 5v gets to mclr some how but can't track down how. (for more reference another pic attached of same chip on page before this on jason63 post).

However the pic you refrenced shows a mark of where to cut and that is the 5v that goes to pin 3 & 4. I don't know how it gets to Mclr.
I don't know if that is the right thing to do or not.

BUT ....What about the Idea of just taking the power away.
Chip is running boots game, game starts.
Take a knife and cut the 5v wire.
(he said knife and playstation what a flash back hehe)
Would that stop the chip? and still play the game.
THEN Tape it back together to boot again.

I know I sound like an as* but I'm trying to get to the nuts & bolts of this.

IF and I mean IF the mclr doesn't have to be grounded.
couldn't you just use a switch and...
1. cut the 5v wire before it gets to the chip & put 1 end of it on 1 pole and put the other end of it on the other.
Switch on 5v to chip.
Switch off no power (no chip)

I'm sure I must be over simplifing.
PLEASE PLEASE tell me why this wont work.

Kinda like bgnome said but don't even ground the 5v.
connect it to give power pull it off to cut power.

[kamaleon]

ok.. this may or may not work.. (look at pic)

i need to find out were pin 3 and 4 get the +5V from.

if it gets it from track to cut then the cables to the swith must come from the cut track it self (bottom) intead of usign the top as ilustrated..

does this makes sence? :crazy:

i wanna get this M3.5 working allready

[jason63]

Originally posted by kamaleon
ok.. this may or may not work.. (look at pic)

i need to find out were pin 3 and 4 get the +5V from.

if it gets it from track to cut then the cables to the swith must come from the cut track it self (bottom) intead of usign the top as ilustrated..

does this makes sence? :crazy:

i wanna get this M3.5 working allready

3 & 4 get power from 5v .
Look at the 3.5 at the 5v where you marked it. see the copper circle... flip the chip over and follow it around part goes over just a little and stops at another contact the other part goes up to pin 3 &4 see my pic

[kamaleon]

are u suggesting to the cut at the back and then take the +5v from 3-4 and mclr from pin 28 ?

if not.. im lost.

[jason63]

Not sugesting...(just thinking)
really just Putting forth that the point marked goes to 3,4.

We could try
1. cutting there (on the back).
2. running the wire from 5v (from wire going to chip or chip itself) to a switch (pole 1)
3. running a line from mclr to pole 2
4. running a line from ground to pole 3
This would follow whats being suggested (i think)

But what do you think about

Quote: "if you just wanted to switch the 5v feed to any chip, all you need to do is wire the 5v point on the chip to the center prong on the switch. then you can wire one of the other prongs to the power source, (whatever point you are supposed to use on the board), and the 3rd prong to ground, (either on the chip or the board)."

Could we cut the 5v wire put the side from the board (power side) to 1st prong the other end of the wire we just cut (one still conected to the chip) to center, and the 3rd to ground on the chip.

THEN when the switch is on, power flows through it (chip works normal.)
Then when the switch is off the 5v power is cut and the chip is grounded. ( turns chip off )

[jason63]

Here is a pick of the 2 ideas I am considering for the magic 3.5.

[Joe Mama]

Bgnome... I think I may stand corrected. :) Why did I not think of that logic? According to this diagram, Just about ANYONE with a run of the mill modchip can create a switch fot their PS2. Damn good thinking bud. In essence, you are dictating weather power gets to the chip in the first place or it it immedialtely goes to gnd. Man... (Its either really early in the AM - or I have just been enlightened.) Magic 3.5 owners - this may be your solution WITHOUT having to find/cut any tracks...
-Me
Bgdaman

[Bgnome]

Originally posted by jason63
IF and I mean IF the mclr doesn't have to be grounded.
couldn't you just use a switch and...
1. cut the 5v wire before it gets to the chip & put 1 end of it on 1 pole and put the other end of it on the other.
Switch on 5v to chip.
Switch off no power (no chip)

I'm sure I must be over simplifing.
PLEASE PLEASE tell me why this wont work.

Kinda like bgnome said but don't even ground the 5v.
connect it to give power pull it off to cut power.

this has been tried before. people have tried to just open the circuit through the power line and it DID NOT WORK. the switch only seems to work when the circuit is closed to ground.

it seems to me that yall are following my idea here, but like i said , i am still unclear about the specificity of the MCLR. i would suggest yall go ahead and give it a shot, while avoiding cutting any tracks. if it really doesnt work, then go ahead and play with the traces.

[RockerNJ]

I had originally tried to just flip the +5v line on/off to gnd on my magic 3 and it didn't work. It caused it to freeze and a ton of static on the audio. Which is why I said in a previous post in one of these threads, that you MUST cut 5V ONLY directly to the chip. Jason63 (or anyone w/ a magic3.5) can you please use an ohm meter and check to see if +5V goes to pin 1??? (next to the dot on the upper left corner) Or does anyone have a spec sheet on the chips used in these mods?? If so, is there enough room to make a cut between the leg of pin 1 and that feedthrough hole (via) directly next to it??

[Bgnome]

ok, ive been talking to EnTiTyZ and he said that i really should wire it directly to the MCLR also.
you could lift the leg off the track and wire the switch to the leg, but that would be trickier than cutting the correct track. but it is one of those last possible options if you still cant find the track.

[jason63]

Originally posted by RockerNJ
I had originally tried to just flip the +5v line on/off to gnd on my magic 3 and it didn't work. It caused it to freeze and a ton of static on the audio. Which is why I said in a previous post in one of these threads, that you MUST cut 5V ONLY directly to the chip. Jason63 (or anyone w/ a magic3.5) can you please use an ohm meter and check to see if +5V goes to pin 1??? (next to the dot on the upper left corner) Or does anyone have a spec sheet on the chips used in these mods?? If so, is there enough room to make a cut between the leg of pin 1 and that feedthrough hole (via) directly next to it??

I used a tester and the 5v track goes to pin 3 & 4 NO contact to pin 1.

[Bgnome]

looks to me that pin 1 is grounded.
i am thinking that there are tracks the we cant see running under the IC. i am willing to bet that RockerNJ's original cut is correct, but it doesnt go to pin 1, it actually goes to pin 28. since i dont have a 3.5, i cant test this, but check for continuity through there..

http://www.ps2newz.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=30642

[RockerNJ]

I am going to go out on a limb here and try to describe something. I may be totally off base here, and if I am, dont bother flaming, I wont respond. Lets start w/ the basics, what is a PS2 mod chip. The chip itself is a PIC chip, which is technically a microcontroller. Basically it's a mini computer desinged to run a simple program. The program itself is over my head (leave that to the smart people in the coding forum). Now some discussion on this thread came about questioning MCLR. What MCLR (master clear) is used for is basically a reset button for the PIC chip, it needs to be at 5V all the time except when it needs to be reset, at which point you would momentarily ground it. So how does this relate to this discussion?? I "*think*" at some point in time, someone with some know-how, who was having a problem with the ps2 freezing, put an ocilliscope on his MCLR line, and found it wasn't staying pulled high (logic 1) so he took a 4.7K resistor to +5V and pulled it high with a switch (in TTL logic we use 4.7K/+5VDC to pull things up(logic 1) and 1K/Gnd to pull things low(logic 0)). Will that solve your freezing?? If the reason YOUR chip is freezing is because the PIC chip is randomly resetting, throwing bogus data to the PS2, then YES, it will stop the freezing. My point is, if your going to put in a switch anyway, why not use it to turn your chip completely On/Off??? There may come a time when it's something that your going to have to do to play online anyway. Both ways will more than likely fix the problem, but IMHO powering the whole switch on/off is a better method. Now back to the discussion of turning the chip On/Off. You MUST +5V/Gnd ONLY the power leg of the PIC chip. The reason I suspect is, that the +5V line coming off the mod board is going to other legs of the PIC chip, and grounding THOSE pins can actually "leak" through the PIC chip and apply some ground to datalines of the PS2.

Well if you've read this whole post, hopefully I was correct with all of my comments, and you are a little smarter now. If you have any valid non-flame questions, I'd be happy to field them!

[kamaleon]

yeah... i though also of 'why not' turning the complete chip off with a switch..

i have asked that question ... yet no answer...

how many feeds does the chip have? can u completely shut it off?

[kamaleon]

many people have found with magic 3 that using a swith that cuts the 5v and grounding pin 28 mclr will stop the frezzing ..

so using the same logic we are trying to add a swith to the m3.5 which has the same code.

evidently the optimal idea is to turn the chip completely off.

this is my second day into modding ps2's not a very pleasent welcome with M3.5 :p

[Bgnome]

all these chips seem to have only 1 power feed. theoretically you can turn it completely off, (but whether this is achieved by grounding the chip or just the MCLR is still unclear to me).

this switch is really just supposed to fix the magic 3.0 issues with freezing on games. for the 3.5, you can isolate the MCLR pin by lifting it from the pcb or cutting the correct track (which, hopefully, is the one that RockerNJ pointed out).

there is not enough information out right now about the "online" thing to know if the switch will really work. from what i hear, even an messiah2 in "sleep" mode could still be detected..

RockerNJ: after reading that excellent explanation, i have a minor question now. i have heard mention of the resistors, but i did not know if they were necessary. it would seem to me that they would be good if one were to switch the chip on/off multiple times while the ps2 is on, but are they necessary if you were just to turn off the chip once after booting?

[Joe Mama]

Flame flame flame... :)
Heh Heh Heh
-Me

[RockerNJ]

Well 1st off, resistors aren't what keep spikes out of power circuits, that would be the job of something like a 1uf mica capacitor, 2nd, please go back and read my "rant" on MCLR one more time. Temporarily grounding MCLR and letting it go back high, simply tells the PIC chip to execute it's software, basically like rebooting the PIC itself. The problem causing the freezing is, that this MCLR line is "accidentally" causing the PIC chip to reboot when it shouldn't, this is "injecting" it's code into the PS2's datastream (which isn't expecting THAT code, but rather game data). As for the PIC chip itself, it should only have ONE true +5VDC and ONE true ground.

To answer kameleons post, that IS what you want to do.
To make an On/Off switch, you simply remove +5VDC from ONLY the PIC chip and instead ground that point (just a precaution to keep voltage from creeping), but ONLY that point. If you ground the entire +5VDC buss on the magic pcboard itself, it seems that the gnd signal "creeps" to some of the PS@ data lines that it shouldn't.

[kamaleon]

RocketNJ read my last post here:

http://www.ps2newz.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=30998#post30998

tell me what u think? pic inclued..

pin28 completely issolated.

[RockerNJ]

Ok, I did a bit of homework, and actually got an answer from Macdennis on another thread. +5VDC on a Magic 3.5 is pins 3&4. Find the trace that goes to those 2 pins ONLY and thats where your gonna cut.

[kamaleon]

thats the thing... u cant see them.. 3,4 and 28 are kinda hidden..

there is ony one track u can trace 5v and goes to all 3 pins.. :o
so i ended up liftign that pin28 so thr ei sno more guesing

[jason63]

bump abyone got a 3.5 switch working yet?

[sonic-iso]

a picture of my switch:)

[tredn]

has anyone tried to use a lighted switch or put an led or something inline with the switch so that you know when it is turned on? Will any 3 pin switch work? does the switch have to be 3 position or can it be 2?

[Bgnome]

i believe that a LED will end up dropping the voltage a little due to some slight resistance..
and you cant use a 2 prong because you need to be able to connect to ground, not just leave the power line open..

[tredn]

is there such a thing as a 3 prong switch that only has 2 position (on/off) on it? could that be used?

[tredn]

what i'm saying if i didn't clarify is does the switch have to be dpdt and can it be a rocker switch instead of a toggle switch?

[kamaleon]

well.. i still havent got my M3.5 to work yet

[usafa92]

Originally posted by Bgnome
"5v is going to run to the 5v point on the chip weather you want it to or not."

maybe a picture would make more sense..
just to reiterate, in this setup the power feed is connected through the switch, (not directly to the chip) but the chip is still connected to ground.

I'm looking at testing the use of a switch on Magic 3.1 and possibly my Messiah 2 chips that I already have installed.

My goal isn't to prevent freezing as i don't have any freezing problems with either chip. Rather, I'm interested in disabling the chip in the event that $ony does implement some type of anti-mod features with is online and non-online games.

Does your setup work (implementing the switch inline with the 5v wire before it hits the chip and grounding the switch)? If so, I'd think this would be the easiest way to "switch" the Magic chip without having to cut tracks.

Also, if this setup works on the Magic 3.1, wouldn't it similarily work with the Messiah 2 (or any other chip) by placing the switch inline with the voltage wire and then grounding the switch? I guess the real question is are there any other sources of voltages for these chips other than the 5v/3.3v wires?

Can someone let me know if that setupworks?

[Bgnome]

my setup works for me.
now, I believe that RockerNJ stated previously that this did not work well with the magic 3.0 and that you shouldn't do it this way because you make have some gnd "creeping" to where its not supposed to go.
but since i have not found a MCLR or something similar on my chip, this is the way i went. i dont know anyone who has tried it with a magic 3.1 or messiah 2, but you are welcome to try. but i would suggest that you consider wiring to the MCLR as a better solution.

[s0hel]

ANYONE HAVE LUCK w/ THE MAGIC 3.5 switch?

if so... plz share :)

magic 3.5 is seriously the gayest chip you can buy to mod the ps2.
i regret not reading forums before buying it.

[ckt]

I had just installed a Magic 3.1 with a switch into my V7.
Attached picture is the 3 pins molex which I fixed so the
switch can be disconnected when removing the case.

[ckt]

Picture with Molex connected.

[ckt]

Final vew of the switch.

[Software]

Does the chip only need 5v power just to boot up or does it use it after the boot.
I was just thinking would it be possible to put a relay from 5v supply, cut the track and the connect to the number one leg on the chip. then when you booted it would say stayed on for 10-20 seceonds then switched off the power fromt the 5v
until you swtched the the main supply off and on which reset the relay again.
is this possible or am i talking dribble, you ot should know there seems alot of clever guys here.

[Bgnome]

im not sure about relays, but you would need to send a GND signal to the line to shut down the mod. just cutting off the 5v feed does not work.
theoretically, you shouldnt need the mod on after the image boots. the relay timing issue could be a problem tho. the amount of time it takes to boot a backup can vary between games, media, and laser efficiency. if the alloted time is too short, you will not be able to boot. if too long, you may have the same freezing issues anyway..

[usafa92]

Originally posted by Bgnome
im not sure about relays, but you would need to send a GND signal to the line to shut down the mod. just cutting off the 5v feed does not work

Are you saying that if I put a switch on the 5v line and turn 5v off, the chip still functions?

[Bgnome]

no, it wont function, but neither will your ps2.

[usafa92]

Is the MCLR something specific to the Magic 3.5/3.6? I don't "see" a MCLR on my Magic 3.1 chips. Just the normal A-Z soldier points.

[s0hel]

im tryin to install a switch for my magic 3.5


im plannin to lift pin 28 (mclr pin) and takin the 5v and GND and puttin them on the switch...

this is what kameleon did but he failed... i cant understand why but the logic seems correct..

anyone wanna give me a heads up be4 i go and install it?
shud i try somethin different?

[kamaleon]

it should work... i think ther eis somethign wrong in my stall i just dont knwo what it is...


use thing wires for ur swith wires

[s0hel]

thin wires for my switch wires?

yea i was plannin to do that.

There is one thing i'd like to clear up tho.

The whole goal for this switch is to turn the modchip completely off -- so.. if we are to cut the trace or the lift the MCLR pin the modchip will still be gettin power from the 5v. If we want to COMPLETELY shut off the mod chip,
shudnt we CUT the 5v wire from the chip and put it on the SWITCH. and use the GND wire to ground it. if we completely shut off the modchip what is the need for the MCLR wire in the middle? i dont really understand the need for the MCRL wire.

-sohel

[s0hel]

bump?

[kamaleon]

i just re-did everything... took out the L shape thing and soldered the wires directly tothe board... still same thing... i get a red screen saying to insert PSone or PS2 media.. :(

[nathaniel_04]

doesn't the Magic 3.1 have a sleep mode. Why are we all making switches for the 3.1. Iam confused


Nathaniel

[DbM]

As I see, nobody 've managed to install a switch on magic 3.5 ???

[kamaleon]

i have a swith witn an LED to my M3.5

ill start a new thread about it sometime tonight..

[DbM]

Ok good new :)
Thx Guy!!

[ShadowKnyght]

All I need to say is - Power - on, power off....

If you remove the power from the chip i.e. connect the switch inline with the wire that grabs it from the main board and then just switch it off - the chip is effectively dead!

Has anyone actually tried this or are people just saying it wont work???

Also - Switching the input to ground should not be needed but may help those who are worried about power on the signal lines some how being enough to power up the chip... I don't personally believe this could happen but hey - I am only an engineer...

But as some have suggested connecting ground to the main power bus input may kill signal lines by some how grounding them... which would seem to suggest that some how some of these lines have been pulled up to VCC directly without correctly chosen pull up resistors... So I really think just cutting power with a two pole switch and not grounding would avoid this!

But I guess I may prove myself wrong... or others can if they have actually tried just cutting power and not grounding the VCC bus - let me know - don't just say it wont work unless you know from experience of can tell me the theory on why it wont work!

IF I am correct in my assumptions then you don't need to find this MCLR or what ever just cut power between the wire and the pad - that way it does not reach the chip at all!

The only thing I am worried about is the fact that even though the chip is turned off it may load down the signal lines that it is still attached to - i.e. capacitance of the wires, and low input resistance of some of the pins of the chip etc causing problems with the connection points... but if it works for most then why not give it a go...

Please correct me if I am wrong about this MCLR cutting thingy but as far as logic dictates - it is not required.

[kamaleon]

do it.. come and tell us..

engineers dont use terms such as: "some how"

but hey what do i know - I am only human

[ShadowKnyght]

cos us engineers are all stuffy old men with white coats or hard hats?? :lol:

I also use terms like thingy... :wow:

But I will give it a go and let you all know whether theory (well my theory anyway) or reality wins out!

gees I thought some of the rest of the stuff I said would have been picked on not just a few poorely chosen words...

By the way engineers can't spell either - I just thought I would let you know before anyone picks me up on that short coming as well ;) The magic F7 button does not exist on forums...

by "some how"...What I meant was that some of the tracks must be directly connected instead of via pull ups to save on manufacturing costs etc - or like with certain chips that do most things internally (ASICs etc) you may find that they have not been designed very well which leads to problems with leakage, ESD etc...

Which is why I am happy to throw theory away if some one has actually tried what I suggest and found it not to work - as I never claimed the Magic3 chips were a good design so who knows what bad short cuts were taken!

(i.e. you can tell by the fact that apart from the main chip there is only 3 other parts - no protection diodes or filter caps etc - which is what makes the apple and messiah better from a HW design point of view ignoring code differences.)

Ok back to the alien world of engineers I go - time to leave you "humans" alone... :rolleyes:

Seriously - it is so not good to play the I am an engineer card! - and before the jokes start rolling in - I have seen em all before - and yes most are true and yes we do find them funny as well :D

[LeoStation]

Some time ago I've tried unconnecting power and the machine doesn't boot that's because the M3 creates some pull-down when it is not energized.
The best solution is to put a 470 ohm resistor in series with the reset and attach a switch wich grounds the reset pin itself to disable the chip, ( I do this but I use a 12c508 controlled by the eject button, if you press eject more than a sec, the chip is off).
I'm Engineer too but I don't need to banner this, Solutions - Not problems, Guys.

Have Fun,

Leo.

[usafa92]

Originally posted by LeoStation
Some time ago I've tried unconnecting power and the machine doesn't boot that's because the M3 creates some pull-down when it is not energized.
The best solution is to put a 470 ohm resistor in series with the reset and attach a switch wich grounds the reset pin itself to disable the chip, ( I do this but I use a 12c508 controlled by the eject button, if you press eject more than a sec, the chip is off).
I'm Engineer too but I don't need to banner this, Solutions - Not problems, Guys.

Have Fun,

Leo.

I don't get it? Are you saying you attach the switch to the reset wire and by taking the reset wire to ground, the chip is disabled? Or are you thinking of using 2 switches, one for reset, one for power?

I'm a non-engineer, so I need a picture or diagram to understand what you're saying. :)

[ShadowKnyght]

By the sounds of it he is only switching the reset wire to disable the chip - which would not reduce the current draw completely just prevent the chip from functioning.

Unless the chip used, actually uses the reset line like an enable disable line that some other micros or line drivers have (RS232 / RS484 with sleep modes).

M3......470 ohm
----.......___
....|----|___|------/ ----- < Switch to ground
....|
....|

But I think your other solution while nice - and slightly clever :D is a bit of over kill - i.e. programming the 12C508 (the chip used for PSX/PS1 modchips) to act as a reset triggered sleep switch - like what from the sounds of it is now implemented on board on the Magic 3.1s.

But if you have plenty of spare chips and a programmer - why not!

Saves placing an ugly switch on the outside of the station and having to drill holes.

Also removes possible issues with induced noise on the power lines as a result of increased wire length having to be used to go from that MCLR point to the switch and back again... should always have a capacitor as close to the input power as possible and adding the switch where people have been adding it could introduce all sorts of noise problems.

i.e. on all voltage inputs to a chip / micro you will note that there is a capacitor sitting near by that filters the AC noise off to ground to keep the micro stable.

oh and hey - I am not bannering it - just stating that I am not just 100% dribbling sh!t - that some times I do sort of know what I am talking about.... sometimes...:rolleyes:

Even though most of the theory went out the window after my exams were over - I do still recall the basics ;)

[fletchg1]

i've installed the switch as per the diagram however vice city still freezes. (I didn't try Kingdom Hearts yet, but it's didn't freeze before). By the way i have a v7 with a m3.

[kizmet]

you either, installed the switch wrong, or you ps2 is messed up. (wich happened to me)

[bmrboy]

What kind of gauge wire do i need for installing switch???
plz help me.

[bmrboy]

bump

[loy]

best to use 22awg

[michaelreina]

I had this idea from a loooooong time (the switch idea) ....
I have a MAGIC2 chip (which was supposed to be original *because it's red* ) but, my games wouldnt boot and I always got a black screen, then someone told me I should cut the "Z" point, now, it works, but the gameshark doesnt, also when I open press eject and then close the lid (with the same game) my ps2 wont read itand I have to reset again or do the swap trick which is kinda stupid since you buy a modchip to avoid that process. now, my question is this.....has anybody had this problem??, has anyone tried putting a switch for the Z point??....I really want my modchip to work at 100% and no freezing, also, I havent tried a DVDr, since I dont have a DVDr drive so.....I just use rips and they work fine,, but I really want to avoid using the swap trick when I wanna use PGEN or ps2reality and swap discs
I hope someone can help me,
thanks

[gongon11]

Would anybody happen to have a diagram for Apple2 chip?

[michaelreina]

can I do this on my MAGIC2?? ...can anybody post a diagram of it??

also, I have a question.....for whoever is the smat one here ;) :

I have a gameshark2 (original) , let's say I have the switch installed, I boot up the GS2 disc and then turn on the switch, swap discs with my backup (using the eject button) and then it boots......right???

[seven o two]

probably not, but i dunno

[mladen85]

i was wondering, is the install of a switch for a magic 3.1 the same install as the 3.0, (can i use the 3,0 diagram):confused:

[ps2mod]

@mladen85: yes it works. it is the same chip.

[ShadowKnyght]

ummm why?? I thought the magic 3.1 was could be disabled by holding reset like the Messiah2 and the Apple Pro...

[ps2mod]

Quote: ?
For PS1 games & DVD Movies, power up from STANDBY with RESET button held until the blue EJECT light comes on; then release RESET and the disk will boot.


--> RESET = PSX/DVD mode

[ShadowKnyght]

must admit I have not read this entire thread but my comment stands - I thought that the 3.1 was better than the 3.0 due to the fact that it now included the disable feature that allows it to be turned off so why would you need the switch??

And yes I am aware that you hold reset till blue light for PS1/DVD and I assume tap it once for PS2 like the MEssiah2 and the Apple PRo - but hold for 5+ seconds to disable...

or is there another mathod to disable... the switch should not be needed for this version unless you are looking at turning it off after it has verified a copy so that online games do not detect it??

[ps2mod]

There r some probs (freezed) with games like GTA3, kingdom hearts or FFX. That is a good methode to make the game work.

there is also a method with a micro-pic to disable the chip. (like a add on chip for m3)

[Kagetsu]

Just a quick thing, i didn't read the entire thread, but this thread is getting bumped so much so there must be renewed interest in it. It all comes down to, the Magic 3.1, Apple Chip, all crash the system (freeze) when there is some movie or part of a game that uses the fmv engine. The chip for some reason reactivates and crashes the system. the PIC12C508 method works good but the chip WILL NOT reactivate after the speicified time runs out. As for the switch method you can actually turn the chip back on after a game has booted. The problem isn't how much power it is drawing but the fact the chip makes erroneous calls suddenly out of the blue in the middle of a game. This is what makes the switch work so damn well... You can turn on the chip whenever you need a disc authenticated, and turn it back off when the game has loaded.

Bottom Line, they both work.

[neus x]

i have a magic2 also and would like to add a switch for going online...
any managed to do this yet?

[Rotosound_rb666]

I went for the head on approach, and stuck mine right up in front. I used a 6 pole 2 pos switch, and I usually wire that to a single dual color led, but on this one I just used 2 led's, but mostly just because I liked the color. Works the same either way.
To use a 6 pole "X" wire top left to bottom right (poles) and vice versa and use the 3 on one side the same as a 3 pole...the center goes to the pcb ane the outside poles go to 5v+ and gnd... with the "X" wire making the other side the polar opposite, just wire the led(s) between the center poles.

[Gazdaman]

yeh man, that's sweet.

Gaz